Wine Dine & Deal
El Coqui
Author: Julie Fadda
August, 2010 Issue
El Coqui
400 Mendocino Ave.
Santa Rosa
(707) 642-8868
Puerto Rican Cuisine
Lunch and dinner daily
Entrées (dinner): $8.95-$16.95
Short but sweet wine list
You know that saying, “Do what you love….”? Welcome to El Coqui, where since its opening day, people have been packing in (even lining up) to enjoy its fun atmosphere, friendly service and (especially) authentic, delicious Puerto Rican food. Owners Jacqueline Roman (who is the chef) and Tina Jackson teamed up last year, when Roman decided to share her first-hand knowledge of Puerto Rican cuisine and culture—lucky us.
First of all, one of my all-time favorite beverages is sangria, and El Coqui does it right. One sip and I was wishing they sold it by the pitcher. Deep red with a layer of citrus, it’s an absolute must for those who choose to indulge. Nonalcoholic choices include coconut or sweet molasses soda. Go on: Expand your beverage horizons.
Our meal started with some Argentine Chardonnay (La Boca) with the empanadillas de res, which is a golden-brown pastry turnover filled with spiced ground beef and chopped green olives, garlic and capers. Tasty enough on its own, its flavor was enhanced by the pique (available as a condiment on each table)—a vinegar-based hot sauce spiced with peppers, chilies, pineapple, garlic and oregano (you can see them soaking in it)—which adds a layer of heat.
The mofongo is refried green plantains mixed with garlic and formed into a mound, with onions and broth. Crispy on the outside with a soft interior, we added the flavorful chicharron (deep fried pork rinds with bacon-like flavor), and it was an absolute delight.
All entrées are served with white or yellow rice (the yellow has capers, olives and spices) and either black or red beans, sweet (caramelized) or fried green plantains (crisp, mild) and a fresh-cut, lightly dressed salad of avocado, tomato and onion. They come out piled high on fiesta dishware and are a feast for the eyes and nose before you even take a bite.
The sweet, perfectly cooked camarones (prawns) are sautéed with a lot of garlic. We tried them with all the sides, each of which offered something fun. The canoas con carne molida (a whole sweet plantain, caramelized and cut into a canoe shape, filled with spiced ground beef and melted jack cheese) it was a great mix of sweet and savory flavors.
The pollo al horno is marinated chicken, which is wrapped in foil with cilantro, peppers and spices and cooked all day until it’s incredibly tender. Try a bite with sweet plantains, rice (white), avocado and onion—a flavor party for sure.
For dessert, we enjoyed thick coconut ice cream with fried bananas (still warm), served in a malt glass. We also had the coconut flan, which had wonderful flavor and perfect texture, with plenty of caramel jus.
We’re already looking forward to returning to this colorful, lively island getaway.
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