All Seasons Bistro

When I heard the name All Seasons Bistro, images of fresh, local ingredients danced through my head. I love a seasonal menu—and this one changes twice per season.
Bistro Chef Thomas Halligan goes all out to entice the palate and stimulate the mind.  That coupled with owners Gayle Keller and Alex Dierkhising’s love for fine wine (there’s even a wine shop in the back to suit any true wine lover’s needs) creates a winning combination. No wonder they’ve been in Calistoga’s restaurant scene for 30 years (they also own Hydro Bar & Grill, across the street, and All Seasons Catering).

I was with my friends Gene and Tess (celebrating their 27th wedding anniversary!). Our first course was tagliatelle with paper-thin sliced black truffles (we could smell their pungent aroma as soon as the dishes hit the table). It went extremely well with the Napa Valley Schramsberg Brut.

Next came salads along with a Pomelo Sauvignon Blanc (big grapefruit nose). One was mixed greens with strawberries, toasted pistachios and strawberry-balsamic vinaigrette. I thought it paired best with the wine. Another was the butter lettuce with horseradish vinaigrette, Fourme d’Ambert blue cheese, celery root, gala apple and toasted hazelnuts. Um, wow. It somehow managed to be the only salad in history to rock my world.

The lobster bisque with black truffle oil and chive had a spicy, original edge. It was silky and rich with layered flavors that held our attention to the very last drop. It was paired with a crisp, smooth and refreshing Saintsbury Carneros Chardonnay.

The mushroom, Swiss chard and mascarpone ravioli in a shitake and sake broth reminded me why I like being in a restaurant where the chef combines things I’d never dream of putting together—and gets it right. Paired with Mark West Pinot Noir, it was a light, earthy and truly delightful dish.

Seafood entrées came with Leveroni Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir (a meatier Pinot than the Mark West). First was the seared Maine diver scallops with Dijon butter sauce, Dauphine potatoes and baby mustard sprouts. The pan roasted Alaskan halibut came with snow pea confetti, pea flan, pea shoots, pancetta crackles and Applewood bacon. The pea flavors and textures went great with such a luscious, thick, moist and beautifully cooked fish.

The Martin Old Vine Dry Creek Zinfandel (saucy nose and a lively, peppery character) accompanied the chef’s smoked Liberty duck breast with Pinot-plum sauce, stonefruit (apricots and plums) ricotta tarte and mushrooms. The roasted rack of lamb with cippolini onions came with creamy orzo pasta, tarragon, Meyer lemon and a red wine reduction.

Dessert (made by pastry chef Summer Fernandez) included a crème fraiche raspberry tarte with ricotta-lemon sorbet and a chocolate lava cake with an amazingly light raspberry ice cream. A memorable anniversary meal to say the least.