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Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar 1325 Broadway Sonoma 707-935-6600 www.thelodgeatsonoma.com
California Mediterranean |
Adjacent to the Lodge at Sonoma, Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar welcomes its visitors with a formal entryway, open-beam ceilings and a large dining room with wood furniture, white tablecloths, warm colors and an open kitchen. An outside patio offers al fresco dining, and there are regular weekly events featuring guest bartenders, movies, wine education and more.
My friend Sheri and I sat next to a set of French doors that looked out onto an organic vegetable garden. Once seated, we were presented with a basket of fresh, seeded sourdough bread served with herbed butter and an assortment of olives.
Chef Janine Falvo began our meal with a selection of her delicious appetizers. First came fried green tomatoes with truffle aioli (crisp, perfect). Then two different “three bites” plates: The first featured tuna tartare (with olives, chives and cucumbers) on a housemade cracker; a plump Kumamoto oyster; and some caviar on a fried potato round with crème fraiche. The second had seared Ahi atop a thin-sliced cucumber salad; fresh Heirloom tomato soup; and a prosciutto-wrapped fig with bleu cheese butter.
Everything was fresh and flavorful, but Sheri’s clear favorite was the fig. “I could eat about 10 of these and call it a night,” she said with a smile. I might agree, as the combination of the sweet fig, salty prosciutto and earthy, creamy bleu cheese had every type of flavor happily dancing around in my mouth.
The appetizers were served with a flight of wine, which included Gloria Ferrer Brut Carneros (beautiful hint of peach in its color), which went especially well with the Ahi; Benziger 2004 Carneros Chardonnay (which paired nicely with the soup; and Glen Lyon 2003 Sonoma Valley Estate Syrah (a delightful match for the fig).
Next came two pastas. First the housemade fettuccini with Oak Hill squash, gypsy peppers and an Heirloom tomato parmesan broth. Served with a Buena Vista Pinot Noir, it was buttery, light, and perfectly prepared. Second was Midnight Moon macaroni and cheese, which came with English peas, chanterelle mushrooms and a porcini crust. Its sauce was stick-to-your-gut fabulous. Total comfort food. If you’re a veggie, this choice is everything but a bore.
The CK lamb en croute was cooked rare with a smoky outer edge. Seasoned with pepper and served with a reduction sauce, it was beautifully presented, with small, thick-cut chops placed in a circle next to a tall, puff pastry pie. The pie was rich with wild mushrooms, chunks of lamb and English peas. The grilled organic skirt steak came with sweet white corn, asparagus, tomatoes and tiny potatoes drizzled with white truffle oil. I could smell the oil when the dish was placed on the table and couldn’t wait to dive in.
Last, we tried several desserts, but the few that stood out were the housemade cinnamon ice cream (a great fall flavor that I didn’t think I was quite ready for—but apparently my taste buds were), the chocolate caramel tart with bruléed bananas and vanilla ice cream, and (not on the menu) a fennel pollen cracker served with honeycomb and Red Hawk triple-cream cheese from Cowgirl Creamery. Another salty/earthy/sweet combination that was as much a party of textures as it was a mix of flavors. We devoured it.
