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Farmhouse Inn & Restaurant 7871 River Road Forestville 707-887-3300
Wine Country Cuisine |
When Sonoma County siblings Catherine and Joe Bartolomei purchased the Farmhouse Inn & Restaurant in 2002, they completely renovated the entire property and turned it into a world-class retreat. Built in 1873, the classic American farmhouse has 10 guest rooms, a day spa, a pool and inviting, beautiful grounds.
Then there’s the restaurant, which has been recognized far and wide and one of the places to eat north of the Golden Gate. Executive Chef Steve Litke’s menu focuses solely on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients, and Wine Director/Sommelier Geoff Kruth’s incredible wine list is a melodious match.
My mom Sallie and I sat at a table alongside a center wall that separated two dining areas. The next thing we knew, Geoff was pouring us each a taste of Champagne Vergnon.
Our first course was a corn and soft shell crab soup topped with a float of Florida rock shrimp. The creamy soup had a perfect balance of puréed crab and corn flavor, while the J. Wilkes Pinot Blanc (crisp with notes of citrus and melon) it was paired with brought out a rich, buttery edge.
Next came the grilled black Mission fig, wild arugula and Serrano ham salad topped with a thin crostini with warm Langhe Robiola (a luscious, creamy goat’s milk cheese). I enjoy fresh figs, but the sweet, smoky, roasted flavor of the ones in this salad went perfectly with the thin-sliced, salty ham and mild greens. It was paired with a classic dry Rosé (County Line, Anderson Valley), and as I enjoyed it I couldn’t help picturing myself sitting on a warm, sunny veranda.
Our third course, a first for me, confirmed the saying “do it right the first time.” The sautéed artisan foie gras was about the size of my palm and had a crisp-seared outer edge and a fatty, moist, meaty, dreamy center. It came with Chilean carica (a yellow fruit similar to mango in flavor) jam, mountain huckleberry gastrique (whole, saucy berries) and housemade brioche. This was one of the most decadent things I’ve eaten in my life. Paired with Sainte-Croix-Du-Mont, Chateau La Rame (a sweet-style wine that Geoff described as a classic pairing for foie gras), I felt like I was eating the most beautiful flower I’d ever seen. What an unforgettable, wonderful surprise.
For an entrée, I chose the Zinfandel braised beef short ribs, which came with mustard spaetzle, Lacinato kale and a braising reduction. The large portion of meat practically fell off the bone and was so moist I hardly even had to chew. Geoff paired it with a Bella single-vineyard Zinfandel that literally embraced the meat’s flavor. An amazing combination I’ll not soon forget.
My mom had the herb salt roasted rack of lamb, which came with an olive ratatouille, goat cheese-potato purée and rosemary-tomato lamb jus. Seared medium rare, the light and flavorful lamb was quite a contrast to the ribs. It was paired with a Napa Valley Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc—an easily drinkable red with a spicy nose and fruity edge that greatly complemented the lamb’s sweeter elements.
Dessert was a chocolate soufflé, served hot with a bourbon crème anglaise (like eating a chocolate cloud), and a Bellwether Farms cheese cake with a blackberry honey drizzle (an unlikely and delightful accent). To wrap things up, Geoff poured us an appertif “Mistelle,” which was a blend of apple brandy and unfermented apple juice. It was clean, fresh and refined—much like the place in which it was so well served.
