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GTO’s Seafood House 234 S. Main St. Sebastopol 707-824-9922
New Orleans Cuisine |
Seems like everyone I know talks about GTO’s, so I was happy for the chance to try it. And from the moment my sister Simone and I walked in, we were treated with an easy hospitality. The room’s jazzy and elegant New Orleans-inspired decor was subdued and welcoming—perfect for lingering over a great meal and conversation. Service was likewise spot-on but unobtrusive.
Owners Gene and Tess Ostopowicz (who moved from New Orleans to California in 1987) and Chef Steve Laden went all out for our visit, offering sample sizes of what seemed like everything on the menu (which offers everything from fresh oysters to Creole-style favorites to pasta dishes to a 12 oz. Rib Eye steak).
Our culinary journey began with glasses of NV Roederer Estate Brut and eight (!) different appetizers. Simone described her Crab Louis as “fresh and tangy, perfect for preparing the palate for a seafood feast,” and I loved my Creole fried tomatoes and shrimp for its slow-building heat and unexpected tartness. The clam chowder was creamy and mild while the seafood gumbo and crab cakes were traditional and tasty.
Simone went on to enjoy a bowl full of clams in a white wine, lemon, garlic and butter broth as I dove into two ravioli dishes. The first was crab-filled in a pungent lemon Parmesan cream sauce that, according to my notes, “seals the deal.” The butternut squash ravioli was sweet and rich, with a burnt butter sauce infused with a strong presence of sage. Decadent.
The crispy Caesar salads, our final stop before entrée-ville, had just the right amount of garlic and anchovy in the dressing (many places skimp). Just right with my 2004 Hartford Pinot Noir.
Next, we were presented with a delectable Halibut special (GTO’s offers fresh fish specials nightly) that was as beautiful in its presentation as it was delicious. The fish was served on a bed of brown rice that added a nutty character to the blend of sweet ginger and curry in the sauce. Accompanied by crisp baby carrots and a few asparagus shoots, this dish had us mmming-and-ahhing.
My glass was by now filled with Lake Sonoma Zinfandel—a perfect accent for the beef tenderloin medallions Tchoupitoulas (named after a street in New Orleans). “Moist” isn’t a strong enough word to describe the meat’s tenderness; it seemed to almost melt in my mouth. The port wine and black currant demi glaze was hearty with a sweet edge and, when sampled with the meat and creamy mashed potatoes together, made for a decidedly sumptuous bite.
Somehow we had room for dessert. Simone’s vanilla bean Crème Brulée was creamy with a crunchy top. My bread pudding with whiskey sauce (and you can taste it) was a rich treat. “This is one of the best,” boasts the menu, and I wholeheartedly agree.
Finally, as if we weren’t stuffed enough, Chef Steve made a personal appearance tableside bearing Bananas Foster. The fruit was caramelized and gooey in a brown sugar and Myers rum sauce. Served atop vanilla ice cream, it was a sweet and delicate blend.
Simone’s already planning to return, while I may have to impatiently sit through a few more birthdays before I can bring my husband/babysitter to the table. In the meantime, thanks to everyone at GTO’s for a memorable sibling celebration.
