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Schellville Grill 22900 Broadway Sonoma (707) 996-5151
Comfort food |
The day I went to the Schellville Grill, I was late, lost and a bit “less than chipper” when I arrived. But once inside, my mood improved. The place is a casual roadhouse, frequented by regulars, local workers—from winery owners to road crews and everyone in between—and lucky travelers. Owner Matthew Nagan says he knows “80 percent of the customers by name.”
Nagan moved to Sonoma in 1987 and opened the restaurant five years ago. Its welcoming interior is complemented by a large outside. And although it’s something he’s always wanted to do, Nagan says owning a restaurant is “like having a toddler who never grows up.” In other words, this is truly a labor of love.
A breakfast and lunch place for the most part, the Schellville Grill has comfort food made with fresh, locally grown produce and house-smoked meats. Those meats, by the way, include apple-smoked bacon—and it’s the best bacon I’ve had in my entire life. No lie. It was perfectly cooked, moist and not too crisp or tough, thick cut and had a wonderful, sweet-smoky flavor. What more do you want from bacon? That’s right. Nothing.
My meal started with the Atta Pepper Frittata, which is eggs scrambled with green onions, mushrooms, tomatoes, green chiles and cheddar. It’s topped with a dollop of sour cream chipotle sauce that has a nice kick. Everything’s piled on Nagan’s fabulous housemade hash browns (crisp exterior, moist interior).
Next came huevos rancheros. It’s kinda funny; every time I order these, no matter where, they’re always different. This generous portion was piled on four fresh corn tortillas and smothered in a mild ranchero sauce. The McSchellville, which I tried next, is top-notch smoked ham, fresh local cheese and three eggs atop an English muffin, served with hash browns. This is one dish I didn’t want to stop eating. Ever.
The “sticky fingers bbq” St. Louis style ribs had that true St. Louis smoky flavor. They were done extremely well, and the tender meat fell right off the bone. I love it when that happens with ribs. Some of the other house favorites include grilled Tuscan chicken, which is scented with lemon and rosemary, then grilled and served with calamata olives, sundried tomatoes and garlic. There’s also the Memphis-style pulled pork, made with braised rib bone meat.
Along with my meal, I drank an Arnold Palmer, enjoyed the happy atmosphere—and felt better with every bite. By the time I left, my stomach was full and my smile wide.
