Vineyards Inn 8445 Sonoma Hwy. Kenwood 707-833-4500 www.vineyardsinn.com
Mexican and Spanish Cuisine
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Twenty-five years ago this July, chef/owner Steve Rose and Colleen (aka “the wife”) opened The Vineyards Inn serving mostly Mexican dishes. They’ve since expanded the menu to include several traditional Spanish delights. In the summer, they grow all their own produce on their nearby, biodynamic-certified Rose Ranch property (their first vineyard-designate Rose Ranch Merlot is out this year).
The restaurant itself has a homegrown feeling too, with a locals-heavy clientele and a welcoming atmosphere. The interior consists of a small, indoor dining room and bar (including a fireplace) and a large solarium patio room with grapevines woven overhead. It’s a very casual and comfortable place—kind of like sitting in your neighbor’s backyard. There are a lot of hanging and potted plants and even some, shall we say, “decorative” macaws and stringed lights dangling about. The air is festive, and the margaritas pack a punch. I was also happy to see that the wine list included some Spanish selections and also that there was house-made sangria (one of my faves).
The first appetizer my friend Justin and I enjoyed was the Green Onion Pancake. Made with corn masa, the crispy pancake was moist in the middle and topped with roasted garlic, fresh green onions and pulled chicken glazed with a spicy-sweet Asian-style finish. An interesting and enjoyable combination.
Next we had the Albondigas, which were lamb and beef meatballs flame-broiled and served over a tomato-sofrito sauce. They came with sautéed fresh tomatoes and onions and a mildly spicy sauce that combined the lamb and beef flavors with perfect balance.
When Steve brought out the Ahi Cakes, my brain saw crab cakes—this was certainly not how I’d ever pictured Ahi. Luckily, my taste buds proved me wrong. Made with fresh minced Ahi, roasted garlic and house-pickled jalapeños, the cakes were pan-seared and served with a spicy aioli sauce. What a nice surprise.
Our first entrée was Chuletas. A house specialty, it’s a rack of lamb cut into chops, then covered with a Basque-style mustard-garlic-rosemary sauce. The great thing about a dish like this is you can taste each ingredient individually. The flavor was smoky, and the mustard really came through. The garlic mashed potatoes were an ideal accompaniment.
The second entrée was Alaskan Halibut. An extreme opposite of the lamb dish, the flame-broiled filet was served with a garlic, cilantro, lime and paprika butter sauce. I enjoyed it because the sauce didn’t compete with the naturally delicious flavor of the fish. It was served with mixed vegetables and thin crisp potatoes.
Even after all that, we somehow found room for dessert. First came the Chocolate Molten Cake, served warm and with a saucy center. Garnished with fresh caramelized mangoes and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, it offered a little something for everyone.
Last but certainly not least came the Flan Caramel. Made from Steve’s grandmother’s recipe, it’s simply eggs, milk, sugar, vanilla and lemon zest baked into a custard. The sauce was light and lovely, and we could easily taste the citrus—and love—that was put into it.