Chef Cindy Pawlcyn is a perfect embodiment of the saying “success breeds success.” In the early 1980s, the Minnesota native came to the Napa Valley as opening chef at Meadowood, then joined Bruce leFavour at the memorable but now gone Rose et leFavour in St. Helena. When Mustards Grill opened for business 25 years ago, it marked Pawlcyn’s first foray into restaurant ownership.
She’s now considered a local culinary treasure and is owner of three of the valley’s most distinct and popular eateries—Mustards in Napa, and Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen and Go Fish, both in St. Helena. She’s also had a hand in the creation of more than a dozen other top-notch Bay Area restaurants in the intervening years, including San Francisco’s Fog City Diner and Bix, Sausalito’s Buckeye Roadhouse and St. Helena’s Tra Vigne. Add to that a James Beard Award for her Mustards Grill Napa Valley Cookbook (one of several she’s penned over the years), and you have a recipe for, well, success.
What got you interested in cooking?
I grew up in an accomplished culinary family where fresh, seasonal ingredients were an integral part of every meal, and supper time was always family time. My parents raised me to appreciate good cooking, even serving me small tastes of wine or beer at the dinner table if it would complement my meal.
Are you a high- or low-maintenance person?
I’d say low, because I can take care of many things myself. But I do use my assistant a lot so I’ll have more time for cooking and pottery.
Do you believe in miracles?
Of course. They happen every day.
Do you have any superstitions?
The number 13, black cats and good omens.
How many countries have you visited? Which was your favorite?
So far, I’ve visited 22, but I can’t pick a favorite; that would be like loving one of my dogs more than the other.
If you could go back in time, what year would you visit?
I’m always going forward.
If you were to be executed in the morning, what would be your last meal?
Crispy blood sausage, sautéed apples with aged Calvados and raspberries and cream to finish.
What are your friendships based on?
Trust, humor, similar beliefs and loyalty.
What do you like most and least about the food industry?
Food.
What habit in other people annoys you most?
Tardiness.
What kind of music do you listen to?
Blues and classic rock. I love the Stones’ “Gimme Shelter.”
What was the most embarrassing thing you did in high school or college?
There are too many to choose just one.
What’s one thing you’d really like to learn how to do?
Play music.
What’s the best book you’ve read in the last year? Why?
Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. It was the end of the series; now I can move on.
What’s the nicest thing you’ve ever smelt?
Every day in the kitchen.
What’s your secret vice food?
Butter.
What do you love to do outside of work?
When I’m not working, I enjoy ceramics, reading, kayaking, walking and enjoying time with friends and family.
How did you become interested in pottery?
It’s fun, beautiful—and you can put food on it!
Do you have a big family?
Yes, I have two sisters, one brother, lots of nieces and nephews, and I’m engaged to be married next summer.
Describe one of your happiest life moments.
When I was young, I would take naps on a raft out in the middle of the lake by our house.
