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Peter Lowell’s 7385 Healdsburg Ave. Sebastopol (707) 829-1077 www.peteerlowells.com Green cuisine |
There simply isn’t a more appropriate restaurant for this month’s green-themed issue than Peter Lowell’s. Housed in Sebastopol’s first mixed-use LEED-certified project, called the Florence Lofts, the place is all about a responsible attitude toward the environment—and an all-organic, high-quality menu.
Owned by Lowell Peter Sheldon and Executive Chef Steven Peyer, the small establishment has large windows, open-beamed ceilings, an open kitchen and a modern, sleek-looking interior.
The mostly Italian menu has an unmistakable West Sonoma County twist. Specials change daily. There are light breakfasts, while lunch offers soups, salads, pizza, deli sandwiches and such. The dinner menu expands to offer antipasti, artisan cheeses, pastas and fresh-caught seafood.
Brennen and I sat in a packed house for dinner. We started with Iron Horse Wedding Cuvée, one of my favorite sparklers. He ordered PL’s escarole caesar, which, you guessed it, is made with escarole rather than romaine, fresh made croutons and finely grated reggiano parmesan cheese. I had the gemischter salat, made with baby greens and root vegetables (hybrids like patterned watermelon radishes), golden and red beets and pepitas (pumpkin seeds) with a light citrus vinaigrette. It was as fun to eat as it was to look at.
Next came two good-sized crab cakes that were dense with fresh crab, mild in flavor and served with a spicy aioli (nice kick) and sautéed greens. We’d also moved on to wine by the glass—the Fort Ross Vineyards Pinotage (dark and lovely with a long finish) and a Porter-Bass Chardonnay (wonderfully smooth and full-bodied).
For the main course, we shared a fresh pappardelle pasta special with a wild mushroom ragout, tomatoes and a dry, grated sheep’s milk cheese. It was drizzled with truffle oil, which I could smell when it came to the table (mmm). An earthy and delightful dish.
We also had a thick filet of local snapper, served with a peppered exterior and sautéed crisp with a moist, mild interior. It sat on a bed of saucy, juicy and flavorful sautéed greens. Then we tried the pan seared squid, which came on arugula and was lightly dusted with tiny breadcrumbs. The squid was sliced into three thin filets that were rolled into tubes, with the tentacles placed in the center of the plate. This light dish could also be enjoyed as an appetizer.
For dessert we shared an Asian pear and lemon zest cake with fresh whipped cream. Very moist, sweet and delicious, it melted in our mouths and left us jockeying for the last bite. As we finished with organic coffees (from Ecco Caffè), we were satiated for sure.
