Moving On

Compadres in Yountville has reportedly been “asked to leave” by its landlord, the Villagio/Vintage Inn group. The departure is slated for sometime near the end of 2007. “We aren’t leaving by choice,” said Compadres GM Jeff Enos. Apparently, the Villagio has contracted Real Restaurant Group to do its on-site catering and doesn’t want another restaurant competing on the property. The Real Group is also looking to create a high-end restaurant in Compadres’ stead. “Apparently, we weren’t good enough for them,” says Enos. This is a shame, since virtually everyone in Napa Valley loves Compadres (now in its 19th year) as a great spot to dine al fresco, meet friends and enjoy casual Mexican cuisine for a reasonable price. Enos is confident he’ll be able to resurrect Compadres at a new location, possibly in Yountville or Napa. I hope he’s right.

And PJ Steak, also in Yountville, has closed. This place never found its stride, and I believe owner Philippe Jeanty’s heart was never in it—unlike his superb Bistro Jeanty down the street. I say bring back Frankie, Johnny & Luigi’s Too, the locals’ spot that served the community well.

New and notable
As for good news, the relatively new Farm restaurant is going strong adjacent to the Carneros Inn. It continues the Inn’s urban feel with its well-thought-out design. This lovely restaurant provides diners with a gorgeous setting and should be ideal midsummer, complete with comfy outdoor furniture. Elegant and impressive (though pricey), Farm could become one of the major dining spots in Napa Valley.

The new Spa Terra, located at the Meritage Resort in lower Napa, has finally opened. This new concept—building a brand new, dedicated spa inside a cave—is novel. Besides the spa, there’s also a wine cave and large entertaining area. Tunneled by Bacchus Wine Caves with Brady Mitchell Construction providing most of the interior work, this was a huge project that employed more than 200 workers. “We had a challenge to figure out the flow with what a cave allows,” says Lynn Curry, senior director at Natural Resources, a spa consulting company based in Glen Ellen. I hope to try it out myself sometime soon.

Fired up
The California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection, established in 1885 as the Board of Forestry, has changed its name—sort of. Although the agency will formally keep its name, it will now be referred to as “Cal Fire.” Unincorporated areas of Napa County (including where I live in Napa) plus the town of Yountville are served by Cal Fire for both wildland and domestic fire protection. The name change, officially part of a California Assembly bill passed earlier this year, won’t cost taxpayers a dime. Only new equipment, signs and the like will use the new logo and name. The mission of the agency, which does a fine job throughout our part of the world, stays the same.

 
Piña honored
The Napa Valley Grapegrowers (NVG) bestowed its prestigious Grower of the Year Award on longtime Rutherford grower Davie Piña at the organization’s 32nd annual dinner on June 1 at Paraduxx Winery in Yountville. The Grower of the Year Award recognizes individuals who exhibit unparalleled leadership in the following three areas: agricultural best practices and innovation, industry advocacy and community involvement. Piña has been the assistant fire chief of the Rutherford Fire Department for the last 18 years.

“We’re all so excited to honor Davie as the NVG Grower of the Year,” says NVG Executive Director Jennifer Kopp. “He’s an icon in the Napa Valley by way of his leadership in premium farming practices and environmental stewardship. Plus, he’s just one of the greatest guys in the world.”

A new bug
The Australian Light Brown Apple Moth, which was caught in Napa for the first time recently, is causing concern for scientists and grape growers alike. Known to produce larvae that feast on grape bunches, this pest is most damaging to table grapes rather than wine grape production. Nonetheless, Napa County Agricultural Commissioner Dave Whitmer has warned that other states (and nations) could impose economically damaging restrictions on California agricultural exports.

This Australian pest has no natural enemies here and can use about 200 species of plants as a host, including grapevines, coastal redwood trees, pine trees and various other fruits. State Senator Patricia Wiggins (D-Santa Rosa) is pushing bill SB 556 through the legislature to create an advisory task force.

Winery notes
Schramsberg Vineyards had its sparklers served at a recent White House State Dinner that honored the visiting Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip.

Roots of Peace has presented its first Global Citizens Awards to Mike Grgich of Grgich Hills Cellar and to Queen Noor of Jordan for assisting in Roots of Peace’s efforts to eradicate landmines. The presentation took place on the Queen Mary 2 while it was docked in New York recently.

Calistoga’s venerable Chateau Montelena Winery has installed a 220-kilowatt solar electric system, which will supply 100 percent of its electricity needs for all operations. “Adopting solar power was an easy decision, since it’s a responsible action both environmentally and fiscally,” says winemaker Bo Barrett. “But I can also assure our clients that we’ll continue to deliver the winemaking excellence they’ve come to expect from us.” Chateau Montelena’s system should reduce carbon dioxide emissions by 6,625 tons—reduction equivalent to the air-filtering power of 40,000 trees over the next 25 years. Way to go!

O’Brien Family Vineyard, an estate family winery in the Oak Knoll region of southern Napa Valley, has announced a formal name change to O’Brien Estate Winery. “We feel the new name better reflects who we are—a family-owned winery that produces high-quality estate wines,” says owner Bart O’Brien. “As our estate wines continue to grow in popularity, it seems only fitting that we make this change.” O’Brien is famously the maker of its signature Seduction, a delicious Napa red blend.

Wall Street Journal reporter Julia Flynn Siler has written The House of Mondavi, a new book chronicling the rise and fall of the Robert Mondavi family. It should appear in bookstores this month. I’ll certainly pick it up. And speaking of Mondavi…

Robert Mondavi’s To Kolon Vineyards 2004 Fumé Blanc Reserve.
I must say, every time I sample this wine, I’m convinced it’s the finest Sauvignon Blanc produced in America. Wow! What a powerhouse: elegant, nuanced, with pear and grass hints and a marvelous, long-lasting, succulent, tangy finish. Sensational.

Finally (and at long last), Napa Valley has been granted official Geographic Indication (GI) status in the European Union. This landmark recognition is the first time a non-member of the European Union has been given GI status. This victory goes a long way toward protecting—and publicizing—the Napa name in Europe.

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