The talent and charm of winemaker Miljenko “Mike” Grgich has been chronicled in the pages of NorthBay biz on more than one occasion. But those features, in large part, focused on his role in establishing California (and the Napa Valley, specifically) as a premier wine growing region. In 1976, his 1973 Chardonnay for Chateau Montelena beat the best French wines of the same vintage in a blind tasting; it was half of the verdict that put Napa Valley on the international wine industry radar (Warren Winiarski at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars bested the French with his Cabernet Sauvignon at the same event). [See “A Matter of Taste,” Special Wine Issue 2007]
But Grgich has always been about more than just Chardonnay. “While some people only know Mike as ‘the King of Chardonnay,’ we’ve always made other wines,” says Vice President of Vineyards and Production Ivo Jeramaz (Grgich’s nephew). “And if you make a great product, you’ll get recognition.” Evidence this reader’s poll for proof of that.
Grgich’s daughter, Violet, and Ivo team with the legendary winemaker (who turned 85 in April) to keep Grgich Hills at the forefront of wine industry trends. “Mike established the style and the standards and now we use his wisdom to continue that,” says Jeramaz. In recent years, this has meant shifting all estate vineyards to biodynamic production and switching the winery to solar power. [See “Full Circle,” Aug. 2007]
“Mike grew up with natural farming in Croatia,” says Jeramaz, “so he was always interested in getting away from chemicals. When I approached him with the goal of farming biodynamically, he was already familiar with many of the principles, so it was very natural for us. The result is a full-bodied, elegant Cabernet Sauvignon with pure flavors, intense concentration and a pronounced sense of place that hasn’t been diluted by chemicals.”
In addition to Napa’s good soil and plenty of sunlight, Ivo continues, the natural farming practices “let the uniqueness of the site show in the wine. By biodynamically farming, we make wines that are alive. The current Cabernet is nicely balanced between fruit and tannin. It’s an elegant wine that’s rich with aromas of black cherry, crushed rose petals and cocoa powder.” (Can I be the first to say “yum”?)
Speaking of yum, about four years ago Grgich Hills began offering (online and at the tasting room) Cabernet-filled Belgian chocolates. Savor that thought for a minute. “They’re particularly popular around holidays like Valentine’s Day and Christmas,” says Ken Morris, communications and marketing manager for Grgich Hills Estate.
As Grgich Hills moves further into its third decade (last year was the winery’s 30th anniversary), Mike Grgich himself faces an even bigger milestone: This year marks his 50th vintage of making wine in Napa Valley. And since one good milestone deserves another, in March 2008, Mike Grgich was inducted into the Culinary Institute of America’s Vintner Hall of Fame. Upon hearing the news, Grgich commented, “Only in America could a poor emigrant come with no money but with hard work and help from many people, eventually own his own winery. To be included in such a prestigious organization as the Vintner Hall of Fame has made my American Dream come true."
