Merlot Doesnt Suck

A couple years ago, I ran into some friends at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair and we got into the inevitable “What wines have you really liked?” conversation. Things were flowing along swimmingly until I mentioned I’d enjoyed one of the Merlots. My friends looked at me like I’d just told them I drink the water straight out of the Russian River.

But I really did like that Merlot. “I know it isn’t ‘hip’ right now,” I said, “but it certainly was one of my favorites so far.” My words fell on deaf ears and shocked faces.

That’s only one example of the many anti-Merlot experiences I’ve had (just a short time ago my friend and I were shopping for wine and she skipped right over what she called the “M-word” section).

So here’s my question: I know it fell out of favor somewhat before “Sideways” came out, but is this backlash all because of Miles’ anti-Merlot tirade? Come on, people! Don’t forget those words came out of the same mouth that drank from the dump bucket! (And, wine producers are quick to point out, the wine Miles coveted and opened on his birthday was a ’61 Cheval Blanc—made of at least 50 percent Merlot.) Are we really going to be swayed by one person’s misguided opinion?

Sure, Pinot Noir is one of my favorite wines and has been for a long time. I’m elated that a movie had such a positive effect on its popularity. But I think Merlot is getting the short end of the stick. And you know what I say to that? I say stick it. There are a lot of reasons to like Merlot—and I’m going to tell you about them.

Roots and reasoning

The people in Bordeaux have been growing Merlot for centuries; it’s most commonly used as the main ingredient in their classic blends. And in Pomerol and Saint-Emilion, Merlot is the shining star. One of the most expensive wines in the world is Pomerol’s Chateau Petrus (its 1990 vintage received a perfect score of 100 from Wine Spectator, and sells for about $1,700 per bottle). Merlot is also the best-selling red wine in the United States, on the consumer level. (The trade, especially restaurants, has shied away. Tsk tsk.)
And while growing Merlot grapes can be touchy, the vines thrive in all types of soils. It’s also extremely approachable. It can be as complex as a Cabernet, but has a softer, less astringent and less aggressive edge.

Because of this, it’s widely planted throughout the world—but not always in the right place. And this is part of what created Merlot’s image problem—when it gained popularity as a solo varietal in the early ’90s, too many people decided to capitalize on that. It was overplanted and overproduced. In California alone, its acreage grew from several thousand in the late ’80s to more than 50,000 today. In short, a lot of people planted it for financial reasons—and the quality often suffered. It developed a reputation of being flat, boring…whatever. It followed in the footsteps of Chardonnay (Remember the ABC—Anything But Chardonnay—trend? Funny, it’s still the most widely planted white varietal around, and has recently gathered a new popularity with the “un-oaked” crowd.) Ahh, how fickle the masses can be.

Today, many of those people who finally figured out Merlot wasn’t going to be as profitable as they’d hoped (for whatever reason) are probably pulling up their Merlot vines and replanting them with Pinot Noir or Syrah or whatever the next “hot” thing is supposed to be.  

In the meantime, the Merlot producers who really know their stuff have been quietly continuing what they do best. Unfortunately, they’ve often been grouped together with some of the less than optimal producers. But they’ve nonetheless managed to grow and bottle some of the most amazing Merlot imaginable. Why? Because they love what they do. Because they know it’s a noble varietal that deserves respect and care. Because they know that when it’s made right, Merlot can dazzle absolutely anyone.

Swanson’s song
Even before Miles mouthed off, the folks at Swanson Vineyards noticed visitors to their tasting room were reluctant to try the Merlot. Being the largest single producer of estate-grown Merlot in the Napa Valley, the winery wasn’t about to put up with that. So Winemaker Chris Phelps, one of the world’s foremost experts on Merlot, and (former) General Manager Stuart Harrison started a seminar called “Merlot Fights Back: The Untold Story.” Its purpose is to demonstrate that not all Merlots are created equal.

“We’re preaching the Merlot gospel,” says Phelps, “and defending its honor.” While noting that, in many ways, Merlot fell victim to its own success, he also says the “Sideways” effect isn’t entirely ungrounded in reality. “It’s just ironic that one line in a movie had such a profound effect.”
The seminars started small, with only key distributors being invited. But their popularity increased as word spread. “There’s been standing room only at a lot of these,” says Phelps. “And we’ve already been invited to do some more next year.”

The presentation covers Merlot’s background and qualities, then leads attendees through two tastings: one a flight of five wines from Italy, Chile, Washington, Bordeaux and Napa; the second a tour of five wines from the Napa and Sonoma valleys. It also outlines the important steps to consider when choosing a Merlot to purchase (yes, the producers’ methods and price category are involved—meaning you really do get what you pay for).

Swanson’s Merlot vineyards are planted in Oakville, along the Rutherford crossroad (across from Opus One, next to Silver Oak). Clarke Swanson planted them there in 1985 after consulting with distinguished enologist Andre Tchelistcheff on what would do best on that specific site. The soil there is clay, just like the soil at Chateau Petrus (where Phelps trained for six months). Phelps says clay is ideal for Merlot because of its natural irrigation capabilities. “The notion of terroir is everything for Merlot. It’s crucial,” he says.

Today, approximately 70 percent of Swanson’s production is Merlot, and Phelps is dedicated to making sure it’s the best possible. Having quality fruit is a great place to start. “As winemakers we like to think it’s 90 percent us when the wine turns out great. But really it’s more like 90 percent vineyard,” he admits.
Luckily, the trend away from Merlot hasn’t affected Swanson’s sales. The winery has actually increased production by an average of 12 percent per year for the past five years, and the number will increase to 15 percent by the end of 2007.

“Swanson Vineyards is only 20 years old, but we’ve found our identity. We know Merlot will continue to be our core production,” says Phelps. Its current release is the 2003, Phelps’ first vintage there as winemaker. It has a smoky, cedar, earthy quality to it, with a well-balanced and smooth structure and a decidedly dark plum flavor that resonates over its long finish. Phelps also let me try the 2004, which will be released next spring. It has denser characteristics (that year yielded a smaller crop) with more black fruit and less wood on the palate. It will be interesting to see how it develops before its release—because even now it’s drinking like a dream.

Mayo’s message

“Merlot’s charms are well proven,” says Jeff Mayo, president of Mayo Family Winery in Glen Ellen, referring to the wine’s popularity as an important Bordeaux varietal. “The problem is it was overplanted—and often in marginal areas. People planted it because for 10 or 15 years it was extremely easy to sell. But it really should be more of a niche varietal.”

Unlike Swanson, the Mayo winery only produces a small amount of Merlot (it made just 350 cases of its 2003 “Nellie’s Block” Laurent vineyard offering) along with more than a handful of other varietals.
The winery’s philosophy is to uncover superior vineyards and then make vineyard-designate wines to represent them. So far, it’s worked out well. “We have a loyal following for our Merlot,” says Mayo. And for good reason. It’s a rich, bold Merlot with dense, layered flavors including cocoa, dark berries and spice.

As far as Merlot falling from general favor, Mayo cites several possible reasons. “People still like Merlot, but to a certain extent they don’t trust their own palates. When they read something isn’t ‘cool,’ they don’t buy it.” In recent years, Merlot was already in oversupply, “but ‘Sideways’ was the nail in the coffin,” he says.

According to Mayo, some winemakers are responding by promoting Meritage blends, which are often made with mostly Merlot. Others are moving into the low-end bulk market. “I feel consumer trends are led by the industry,” he continues. “People in the wine industry like to experiment and don’t want something to be ‘king’ forever.”

Making a Markham
Winemaker Kimberlee Nicholls started at Markham Vineyards in 1993. “A lot of people think Merlot should be like a Cabernet, but I don’t,” she says. “One of the first wines I enjoyed as a taster was Merlot because of its fleshy, plum-like characteristics. I think Merlot should be more feminine—soft and round—as opposed to Cabernet’s masculinity.”

Markham, which began producing Merlot in 1979, produces about 50,000 cases of the varietal annually (up from 35,000 when Nicholls first started there). The majority of its Merlot is grown in its Yountville vineyards. “In any given year, the Merlot is a blend of 20 different blocks along the valley floor. The different regions add different characteristics to the wine,” says Nicholls. “I want that balance of acid and fruit, especially when the wine is being paired with food.” Merlot is Markham’s flagship wine, and Nicholls had a variety of samples for me to taste. (It’s a tough job, but…)

First came the 1999 Napa Valley Merlot and it was quite the excellent start. I swear it laid itself over my tongue like a blanket of Merlot lovin’—lots of dark cherry, vanilla and berries. It was lush and entirely sexy. Next came the 2003, which had a decidedly spicy nose and was equally as complex as the 1999 but in a different way, including a stronger sense of anise.

Markham has both Napa Valley and Reserve Merlots. The reserves are all blended with 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 5 percent Cabernet Franc. They’re aged in French oak and aren’t released until Nicholls and her team (Cellar Master Efren DeHaro, who’s been there 27 years, and Assistant Winemaker James Coughlin) feel they should be. “We want them to be food wines. When they’re young, they’re not as food-friendly,” Nicholls explains.

The 1997 Reserve Merlot is, in Nicholls’ words, “flashy.” I couldn’t agree more. It has a spicy nose that moves right into spicy flavors that are nicely balanced with the wine’s dominant dark cherry essence. “It’s showing lovely right now,” says Nicholls. “It really shows the way Merlot can age.

“Wine changes in the bottle. It goes through periods of greater and lesser drinkability. Merlot can be similar to Cabernet in its chewiness, but it doesn’t beat up your tongue. When it’s aged, you get the softer spice and caramel notes.”

And when we moved on to the 2001, I clearly understood what she meant. It was thicker and (obviously) younger. She’d rather it had been decanted, but I thought it was lovely just as it was.

Last but certainly not least was a barrel sample of the 2004 Reserve Merlot. Nicholls brought the glass up to her nose and exclaimed, “Ooh, it smells like coconut! I like it already.” And it did smell like coconut. This, complemented with a thick, round, dark cherry, vanilla and oak palate, was nothing less than delightful. It doesn’t even come out for another couple of years. I guess it’s true that good things come to those who wait.

Suncé’s rays
“When people come to the bar and say they won’t taste the Merlot, I say, “I really want you to taste my Mer-lot [purposely pronouncing the “t”],” says Janae Franicevic, owner and general manager of Suncé Winery in Santa Rosa. “I have fun with them. I say, ‘This isn’t Hollywood!’”

Franicevic says the anti-Merlot trend has led consumers toward higher-end Merlots. “A good Merlot will age just as well as a Cab. It may be more approachable young, but is just as age-worthy. It’s a well-built wine that holds its color and structure, especially the higher-end Merlots.”

Looking back to when Merlot became overproduced, Franicevic says, “Large producers used Merlot to attract the crossover consumers who were used to drinking White Zinfandel and the like. They were making them slightly sweet because that’s what they could sell. They weren’t aiming at collectors. But small producers like us were catering to people who really know their wine.”

Suncé has several Merlot offerings, and its 2005 Hedin Vineyard won a gold medal at this year’s Sonoma County Harvest Fair. The 2004 from the same vineyard won a silver. “They’re young, but I love the baby fat on them. [The 2005] is so fresh it tastes like a barrel sample,” says Franicevic. And it certainly is a standout. The Hedin vineyard is located in the Russian River Valley, where Franicevic says more Bordeaux-style Merlots are produced. “It has an earthy, white truffle quality and thickness to it. The fruit is like dark plums. It achieves a mature quality much faster than other varietals.”

Winemaker Frane Franicevic also shares a love for his vineyard-specific Merlots. “I have a sense of how to work with them,” he says. “From fermentation to which oak to use, their full potential comes out.”

Suncé’s Merlots are all barrel-aged in French oak, and are all 100 percent Merlot. “It’s not blended because we want to showcase the vineyard,” says Janae. And customers are responding. The winery has increased production from 400 to 650 cases between 2004 and 2005, due in large part to the success of its Russian River Valley selections. “The Trumann King vineyard in Kenwood had a blockbuster year in 2005 as well,” she adds. “This guy is in his 90s and still farms his own vineyard. We’ve been making Merlot from it since 1999.” Certain people just love what they do.

White Oak’s winners
Of all the wineries I spoke with, White Oak was the only one that reported a sluggishness in Merlot sales. “It’s always hard to guess why consumers’ tastes change, but they always do,” says Jerry Baker, director of sales and marketing. “With Merlot, it’s a combination of overproduction, over consumption and the ‘Sideways effect.’ The movie projected an unfair image that Merlot drinkers are less sophisticated.” Of course, we know better, don’t we?

White Oak’s answer has been to temporarily reduce production as part of an overall effort to increase quality. Four years ago, it produced 15 wines. Today it focuses on only five. It hired a new winemaking team (including Winemaker Bill Parker, who previously spent 16 years at Matanzas Creek Winery, which only produces Merlot) and gave them complete control over vineyard selection, equipment, release timeframes and so forth. “The goal is to remain the same size, but continue to improve the wine to meet the needs of the ultra-premium consumer,” says Baker.

The wine is also value-priced. For example, its 2003 Merlot (which will retail for $25 once released) was recognized by Wine and Spirits magazine (Oct. 2006) as one of the top 12 of 269 American Merlots tasted that year. Other wines on the same list were two and three times that price. “The value a Merlot represents in general,” says Baker, “is about half that of a top Napa Valley Cabernet. If you’re a high-end red wine drinker looking for value, Merlot is an avenue to explore. Our goal [at White Oak] is to have the highest quality but at half the price. We’re the ultra-premium customer’s everyday wine.”

And Parker is equally excited about what he has to work with. “With wine it all starts with raw materials. The fruit has to be grown in the right place,” he says. “When I noticed we had a block of Clone 181 Merlot, I was ecstatic. I said, ‘Oh! I want that!’ It’s grown in Wooden Valley, and it’s a Merlot that’s rich and opulent—what a good Merlot should be.”

I tasted both the 2002 and 2003 offerings. The 2002 is blended with 6 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a big nose and actually tastes just like it smells. It’s packed with cherries and jam and has a full, long finish and mild tannins. It’s really smooth. The 2003 is blended with 16 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s the first vintage Parker was involved with at White Oak. It’s thick, deep and lush. I can’t wait to try the 2004, which will be the first one Parker oversaw from start to finish. That man has a talented winemaking hand.

Ducks in a row
“The movie did more good for Pinot than harm to Merlot,” says Duckhorn Vineyards’ Dan Duckhorn. “Now the bar is being raised by producers. There are a lot less ‘bad’ Merlots out there.

“Any product that’s had such a rise is bound to have a plateau, but a major decline or a leveling off remains to be seen,” he says. “The strength of a brand is the critical part. Our sales haven’t softened, and we’re even increasing production.”

No one can argue Duckhorn’s longevity. When it started producing Merlot (after Dan traveled to Pomerol and developed an appreciation for the varietal) in the 1970s, it produced 800 cases. Today it has six offerings of Merlot (two are brand new, vineyard-designate selections), and produces 35,000 cases. “We believe strongly in the grape,” says Duckhorn. I’d say that’s obvious. After all, while it also produces Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon (both stellar in their own right), Duckhorn is known as a Merlot house…maybe even “the” Merlot house.

Visits to the Duckhorn winery have also increased. “We’ve noticed a bit of a backlash against the [anti-Merlot] trend,” says Dan. “People say, ‘We don’t know what this is about; we love your wine!’ We haven’t noticed any large-scale abandonment at all. [The trend] might not be as bad as everyone says it is. Merlot is holding its own.”

When asked what he loves about Merlot, Dan says, “Its definite affinity to match with food better than other red wines. Its great drinkability and forward flavors make it a wine you can enjoy. It also doesn’t require long-term cellaring.”

Of his own Merlots, he says, “We have great vineyards and diversity. The Napa-sourced fruit is hand-sorted in the field and at the crusher. We have focused vinification techniques, blending flexibility, 25 years’ experience and direct contact with the consumer.”

Little did I realize the treat I was in for when I was able to enjoy tasting four of Duckhorn’s Merlots. First came the 2004 Napa Valley. A blend of 85 percent Merlot and 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, it was like drinking a rose. What a beautiful bloom. Extremely likable, it’s full, lush and silky. The winery’s basic offering is a standout.

Next came the 2003 Three Palms Vineyard. The winery’s first vineyard-designate wine in 1978 was from this “flagship” vineyard. It has a decidedly spicier and sassier feel than the Napa Valley choice. A blend of 75 percent Merlot, 11 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7 percent each of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, its cherry, berry, sprightly and vivacious flavor almost seems to have a smirk that says, “Yah, I know I’m excellent. How about you?”

The 2002 Howell Mountain (Stout Vineyard) was deep, dark and rich. All Duckhorn’s Merlots have a dark color, but this one somehow feels deeper. Silky, soft, smooth and ripe, it definitely has a chocolate edge. A 75 percent Merlot and 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon blend, this particular offering is bottle-aged a year longer than Duckhorn’s other Merlots—and the added complexity is obvious.
The last one I tried was the 2003 Estate Grown Merlot, which stopped me in my tracks. A 90 percent Merlot, 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon blend, it has a chocolate, caramel, supple, round, sexy, lovely body. I wanted to eat it. I actually wanted to chew. I sat there and decided I wouldn’t even need food with it. I pretty much just wanted to just go ahead and drink the whole bottle. Wow.

So here’s the deal. If you like wine at all, go to Duckhorn and have a taste. You have to make an appointment, but trust me, it’s worth the time. The room and the estate are welcoming and well appointed, right along the Silverado Trail. And you absolutely cannot go wrong with these wines.
For that matter, all the wines I’ve mentioned here are well worth a try. They’re made with love, by producers who understand the varietal and who use that understanding to create absolutely phenomenal wine. It’s wine to please any palate. Even (dare I say) Miles’.