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West County Grill Cal-Ital Cuisine
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West County Grill has a little something for everyone. And I’m not just talking about the food. Let’s start with seating. There’s the dining room with polished wood furniture, brick walls, open-beamed ceilings and windows along the front. There are also bar stools along a counter perched against the open kitchen, where diners can watch everything that’s happening. Further to the rear is a bar area; step beyond that, and you’re alongside Sebastopol’s square, on a small, covered patio with a handful of tables. The way the place is designed allows an intimate feeling regardless of mood or location. The ownership and management team of Stephen Singer, Jonathan Waxman, Mike Hale and chef Darren McRonald have created a place that’s both aesthetically and gastronomically pleasing.
Halley and I chose the main dining area, up near the front windows that look out onto the bustling Bodega Highway. Our meal started with sparkling wine and a dozen oysters (Marin miyagi and Fanny Bay) served with mignonette dipping sauce and fresh sliced lime.
Next, I chose the Balletto Vineyards Pinot Noir (dark cherries, vanilla, spice, smooth, lush), while Halley had the Seghesio Arneis (a rare Italian varietal the winery grows locally; citrus nose, honey and floral flavors, dry). We enjoyed these along with our second course, which included prosciutto di parma with Capay Farm’s gailia melon—a few slices of mild melon were covered in a blanket of thin-sliced prosciutto—salty and sweet, it’s one of my favorite flavor combinations. We also had the grilled fava beans with ricotta salata. The dish was mild in general, but the grill added a nice, smoky flavor to the ingredients. I especially enjoyed this pairing with the Pinot Noir (opposites attract).
For our entrées, Halley ordered the roasted mussels and chorizo. They had a tomato, garlic and white wine sauce, and the chopped chorizo added a nice heat. She also had French fries, which were hot, crisp on the outside and tender inside. Fresh-cut with skin still on, they inspired her to order a pilsner.
My entrée was the grilled Niman Ranch hanger steak, a nice portion served medium-rare (as I’d ordered) and sliced width-wise. It was served with a mound of whipped potatoes and topped with salsa verde and fresh sprouts, which added an herbaceous edge to the earthy dish. Along with the steak, I enjoyed the Quivera Mourvedre (dry, dark, earthy, and a nice pairing for the steak).
Dessert was a bing cherry clafouti (French-style, baked custard dish) served à la mode; and an ice cream sandwich, which changes regularly but this day was chocolate chip cookies and espresso ice cream. The ice cream was from Screamin’ Mimi’s (just down the street and also quite a treat).
