Pearl
1339 Pearl St.
Napa
(707) 224-9161
www.therestaurantpearl.com
Eclectic Cuisine
Lunch and dinner Tues.-Sat.
Entrées: $14-$26.95
Good wine list
Pearl is just what its name implies—a little hard to find, but a true gem. Locals have been frequenting the place since the mid-1990s, and with good reason. Owners Nickie and Peter Zeller are well known for their hospitality and outstanding fare. Nickie co-chefs with Jose Bravo-Guzman, while Peter handles the front of the house.
The intimate space has an open kitchen and an outdoor patio. The interior is adorned with brightly colored paintings by Kathy Dennett and metal sculptures by Richard Mendelson (both local artists). The feeling is casual, and half the $12 corkage fee goes to the local Humane Society.
Pearl offers several oyster preparations. We started with fresh Marin Miyagis and some Domaine Carneros Brut. The oysters were served with a lemongrass champagne mignonette (somewhat sweet with a hint of citrus) and a mild cocktail sauce.
Our next course included a hearty potato leek soup topped with smoked bacon, chives and croutons. We also shared a baby spinach salad with a generous amount of earthly delights, including Hobbs’ wine cured salami (thin-sliced, delicious), feta cheese, red onions and toasted pine nuts, dressed with lemon vinaigrette.
The fresh fish special, a grilled mahi mahi with a cognac and Dungeness crab cream sauce, sounded too good to resist. Sometimes I’m wary of mahi, because it’s so easy to dry out—but not this time. It was tender and well prepared with a generous amount of bite-sized fresh crab chunks in the flavorful (but not overwhelming) sauce. It came with Yukon gold potatoes that were sliced and sprinkled with paprika prior to being roasted and some sautéed sugar snap peas. Peter paired it with a 2007 Heitz Cellars Chardonnay (pear, citrus and mineral elements).
The roast duck, which was served bone-in, filled the senses the moment it came to the table with its great looks and the aromas of a five-spice reduction sauce (its slow-building heat with a hint of sweetness reminded me of Mexican-style mole sauce) and saffron rice that was richly seasoned (one could actually taste the saffron rather than merely enjoy its color). Hands down, it was the best duck entrée I’ve had in a long time—not just because it was different, but because the flavors truly jumped forward. It was served atop a bed of sautéed greens and topped with a pear and ginger chutney. Peter paired it with a Zinfandel from Easton Winery in Amador County (peppery nose with dark fruit flavors).
We ordered two desserts created by pastry chef Fatima Bravo. First was an apple and cranberry crisp (with fruit from the Blue Tooth farm), served hot with a thick, crunchy top and a scoop of house made vanilla ice cream (all sorbets, ice cream and sauces are made in house). Second was the chocolate pot de crème (custard) with whipped cream—great for a chocolate fix without being too heavy or sweet. The entire meal was a treat.
