Cucina Paradiso
114 Petaluma Blvd. N.
Petaluma
(707) 782-1130
www.cucinaparadisopetaluma.com
Italian cuisine
Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entrées: $14.95-$24.95
Good wine list
Chef Dennis Hernandez and his wife Malena opened Cucina Paradiso more than 10 years ago, and today it remains a local favorite (we were there on a crowded weekday evening). Located in Petaluma’s thriving downtown district, its well appointed space features a large dining area with an open kitchen and a smaller dining area toward the rear of the building. Both have lively paintings, fresh flowers and beautiful blown glass light fixtures. But the focus here is on the food, so let’s get started.
The menu is broken down into four courses, and the wine list gives Italy and California equal weight. We ordered a bottle of Rosso di Montalcino (black pepper, earthy, medium bodied) to enjoy with the meal.
Our first course was the carpaccio di manzo, which is a layer of very tender, paper thin-sliced, raw filet mignon that blankets the plate and is dressed with olive oil, capers and a drizzle of mustard, then enhanced with a mound of arugula, a few olives and some shaved parmesan. The items’ bold flavors were well rounded when combined in a single bite, and the wine enhanced the dish even more (or was it the food that enhanced the wine?). Next came a chopped caesar salad with a subtle dressing (not a lot of garlic) and some cream of asparagus soup that was a rich puree, creamy and smooth, with a small drizzle of olive oil on top and a few slices of julienned tomatoes for color (OK, they tasted really good, too).
For the third course we shared ravioli di melanzane, crafted with homemade pasta filled with an eggplant and goat cheese puree, then topped with cherry tomatoes, a bit of fresh basil and some brightly colored (and flavored) tomato-based sauce. The basil added a sweet edge to the otherwise entirely savory, luscious dish.
Our entrées were equally delicious. First a veal saltimbocca, thin-sliced and tender cuts sautéed with prosciutto, sage and white wine, topped with melted provolone cheese—a very rich dish (comfort food for sure). Then a rack of lamb, with four small chops lightly seasoned and cooked medium rare, served atop a colorful roasted bell pepper sauce that had a nice heat to it (and simultaneously a touch of sweet) but didn’t overwhelm the natural, edgy flavor of the lamb. Both dishes were served with a generous amount of sautéed mixed fresh vegetables. Chef Hernandez selects high-quality local produce, seafood and meat products daily, and it shows.
For dessert, we first tried the terrinadi pere, which is two slices of dense sponge cake layered with thin-sliced, fresh pears and mascarpone cheese, flavored with amaretto and topped with a generous layer of thick chocolate/coffee sauce. A sliced strawberry garnish was a nice addition—especially when dipped in the excellent sauce. We also tried the tiramisu, which was like eating a dessert cloud. It was so light and delicate, with ladyfingers, mascarpone cheese, espresso and cocoa powder.
