“I’m glad your readers found us,” says Michael Cox, winemaker at Schug Carneros Estate. “We’re a small winery!” But NorthBay biz readers know their wine. And when it comes to Schug Carneros Estate, the essence is all in the name. Literally—the winery is focused on expressing the character of the grapes from its region, which is located on the Sonoma side of Carneros (where it intersects the Sonoma Coast AVA). “I want to show what Carneros should taste like for each vintage.”
Cox joined Schug in 1995, when winemaster/owner Walter Schug (who was the founding winemaker at Joseph Phelps Vineyards) hired him. Walter and his wife, Gertrud, began operating the winery in the 1980s (their first Chardonnay release was the 1982 vintage), and built the current facilities in 1991, finishing the 5,000-square-foot caves in 1995 when Cox joined the team. Since those early days, the winery’s production has doubled (it’s now at about 25,000 cases at its Bonneau Road facility, 7,500 of which is Chardonnay). It produces Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and sparkling wine. All grapes are hand-harvested and gently pressed. The estate has 42 acres of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and it also purchases grapes from a handful of trusted growers.
Today, there are three Chardonnay offerings: Sonoma Coast (stainless steel fermented, with a creamy mouthfeel and floral and tropical fruit flavors), Carneros (barrel fermented, buttery nose, mild oak and bright finish) and Heritage Reserve (barrel fermented, lush with butterscotch and vanilla on the nose, floral with a rounded mouthfeel).
“Mouthfeel and acidity are most important to me,” says Cox. “I want to keep the wines lively. Wine is always better with [acidity] in the finish. It makes you want that second glass.”
Cox grew up in Sonoma and earned his degree in fermentation science at UC Davis. He says one of the wines he likes the most is Chardonnay. “From the beginning, I always thought the best Chardonnays came from Carneros,” he says. He began working in the wine industry during his first year of college (prior to UC Davis—but being in a winery inspired him to transfer).
“The 2007 wines have good acid and body,” he says. “They didn’t get super ripe. It’s windy here and foggy in the mornings, which helps create an extended growing season. We usually have the first buds of the season, but then it cools off and we’re one of the last to pick.”
Schug is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., with tours by appointment. The 2007 vintage offerings are currently being released.
