Rodney Strong’s Merlot is a blend of warm climate Alexander Valley and Dry Creek Valley grapes, which give it plush, dark berry and plum flavors, and cooler climate Russian River Valley grapes that provide structure and balanced acidity. The 2005 vintage has a floral nose, with bright red and ripe dark fruits and a hint of vanilla on the palate. It’s a blend of mostly Merlot, with a small percentage each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah. “A good Merlot should remind you of a Cabernet Sauvignon, but without all the elbows and fiddles sticking out,” says winemaker Rick Sayre, who’s celebrating his 30th year with the company (which this year is celebrating its 50th anniversary). “It should give the illusion of sweetness, and be soft and delicious—without the sugar.
“Barrel use is important,” he continues, “because it helps meld the flavors and tannins.” Rodney Strong even has an in-house cooperage (that focuses on barrel repair) and works with separate coopers to purchase barrels according to its needs. “You can vary the time and temperature [when ‘toasting’ barrels] to get different flavors,” says Sayre. The winery uses 10 different levels of toast, depending on varietal.
Sayre employs traditional winemaking practices to make Rodney Strong’s Merlot and says that, while he makes improvements each year, his process has remained mostly the same. The fruit is destemmed, and as many whole berries as possible are gently placed into the fermentation tanks. They’re cold soaked for a couple days, then pumped over (rather than punched down) to gently mix the juice and get color and flavor out of the skins. Most Merlot is pressed early, because Sayre likes it to be soft. Then it’s put into predominantly American oak barrels, where it stays 18 to 26 months.
Consistency is often what gives a winery its reputation; having a long-time winemaker is one way to ensure it. “There’s no revolving door with winemakers here. They’re like chefs. The taste of the wine changes with each one,” he says. Sayre also points out that Rodney Strong only uses grapes from estate vineyards or from growers with whom the winery has a long-time relationship.
If you plan to visit the winery, it’s easy to find, just off the 101 in Healdsburg, adjacent to J Winery. Head there during the harvest season to experience some hustle and bustle, or check out February’s popular wine and chocolate fantasy event. Music lovers can bring a blanket, have some wine and kick back during the winery’s summer jazz concert series. Members of the Collector’s Circle wine club get all sorts of perks, including easy access to reserve wines.
“I’m really happy we were voted Best Merlot,” says Sayre. “I recognize there are a lot of wines out there.” He also says the best compliment he knows of is when someone asks for another glass. “Sometimes the moment makes the wine; and sometimes the wine makes the moment.” n
