La Toque

Our meal started with sashimi of Kona kampachi (almost clear flesh with a hint of shiso on top), atlantic fluke (with clover sprouts and a seeded mustard drizzle) and big eye (ahi) tuna with savory picked cucumbers, root vegetables and yuzu (sour Japanese citrus). This pure, sassy dish was paired with a very crisp 2007 Pichler Gruner Veltliner Federspiel from Wachau, Austria.

Next came a decadent, seared artisan foie gras with broiled fig, lime butter and toasted brioche, served with a sweet 2005 Chateau Doisy-Vedrines Sauternes—the play of sweet and salty between the dish and the wine was divine.

The Creekstone angus beef tenderloin carpaccio was fanned out into a beautiful, dark flower with grilled king trumpet mushrooms piled on the center. Tiny fried cubes of potato added a hint of texture to the smoky/salty dish. It was paired with a 2007 Etude Rosé of Pinot Noir from Carneros, which enveloped the carpaccio like a blanket as it literally melted in the mouth. Along with that, we had the Maine lobster salad with sweet mango and bright lemongrass, served with a 2007 Pelerin “Les Tournesols” Paraiso Vineyard from the Santa Lucia Highlands, which was fruit-forward but also grounded rather than overwhelmed the dish.

The Wolfe Farms quail came with blue foot and morel mushrooms, spring onions and baby root vegetables—its flavors brought together with the 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champs Chenys from Domaine Gerard Raphet, a Burgundy chosen because the region’s terroir invokes tannins and earthiness that match the skin of the quail. This was probably my favorite pairing.

The West Texas “Nilgai” antelope came with a leek and black trumpet potato terrine with roasted root vegetables and red wine reduction. It had a sharp, peppery edge (which contrasted with the wine), with tender, bright meat served medium rare and well accented with the deep, dark sauce.

For dessert we chose Cowgirl Creamery’s triple cream Red Hawk (mmm), which came with golden raisins, bread and toasted almonds; and a delicious milk chocolate peanut butter terrine with a light banana sorbet and thin, toffee-like peanut brittle.