Bistro Jeanty

by Julie Fadda

September 18, 2009
in Monthly

Bistro Jeanty
6510 Washington St.
Yountville

(707) 944-0103
www.bistrojeanty.com
French Bistro
Lunch and dinner daily
Entrées: $17.50-$38
Full bar; extensive wine list

Since 1998, Chef Philippe Jeanty has been bringing the feeling of his hometown in Champagne, France, to his Yountville restaurant. Step inside and you’ll find a front dining area and bar, another dining room toward the back and a large outdoor patio. The butter yellow walls, brightly colored French posters and casual setting all add a unique ambiance and energy to the place—with details down to a chalkboard specials list and salt, pepper grinders (Peugeot! Who knew?) and mustard on each table. It’s a place that caters to couples, groups of friends and even large parties (up to 60 people can fit on the patio).

But I’m mostly here to talk about the food. The first course was grilled sardines from the specials list, which were good-sized, stuffed with onions and served with a pickled fennel, onion and parsley salad. The overall effect was a nice blend of earthy, tart and hints of sweet and salty flavors, all brightened by fresh Italian parsley and brought together with a pairing of 2007 Chateau du Ceray Muscadet (light, crisp, bright).

Bistro Jeanty is known for its tomato soup, which is flavorful, dense and buttery, served very hot in a baked puff pastry that surrounds it entirely with a cut-out “lid” that was fun to break up and mix inside. It was paired with a Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut, which lent a sense of balance and lightness to the hearty soup.

For a salad, we had the special, a mix of Frog Hollow peaches with pancetta and arugula. Served with a peach-colored 2008 Bergerie de L’Hortus Rosé (clever!), it had a nice sweet-salty-tart flavor play while the wine accented the sweet elements.

The natural flavors in the petrale sole meuniere were the stars in our first entrée. A very large portion was placed onto a mound of mashed potatoes, then topped with a lemon, caper and butter sauce and some fresh lime. It was paired with a 2007 Miner “Simpson Vineyard” Viognier (honeysuckle, orange blossom, crisp minerality).

The second entrée was from the specials list, a porcini-rubbed flat iron steak with potato risotto and truffle butter. Potato risotto translation: potatoes cubed as small as corn kernels, then prepared like risotto as part of this earthy, peppery and quite filling dish. It was paired with a very masculine 2007 Grande red wine blend (intense peppery nose then smooth on the palate with chocolate and leather characteristics).

For dessert, we had a berry brulée bread pudding with vanilla bean ice cream (we loved the rich berry flavors and how the bread’s edges had a crunch), and a scoop of light and refreshing lemon sorbet—served in half a lemon peel.

Our server, Sarah, had exceptional wine and menu knowledge, and did such a great job I simply had to mention her name. Thanks to Sarah and everyone else at Bistro Jeanty.