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Charbay Winery & Distillery
4001 Spring Mountain Rd. St. Helena, CA 94574 (707) 963-9327 www.charbay.com
Hours: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily Tasting fees: $20-$25 Items offered (in the tasting room): Chardonnay, Rosé, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ruby Port, Dessert Wine, Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Aperitifs Appointment necessary: Recommended Picnics: Yes, with advance notice
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And now for something completely different. Charbay is Napa Valley’s “still on the hill” at the top of Spring Mountain—the only winery I’ve ever been to that uses a cocktail shaker behind the tasting bar.
Owners Miles and Susan Karakesevic moved onto the 17-acre property in 1972. Miles first worked as winemaker at several wineries, and by 1983, he and Susan were making Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc—and distilling Alambic pot still brandy.
Why not just wine? Turns out Miles is a Serbian-born, 12th-generation master distiller, and with a 250-year family heritage of winemaking and distilling, well, it’s in the blood. Today, son Marko is continuing the tradition. “We make wines and spirits that no one else in the world makes,” he says. “When people visit, they find it’s casual, educational, fun, personal—and they leave happy.” He says his favorite part of what he does is seeing everyone enjoy Charbay’s products. “I also love the production side…and the drinking side,” he laughs, pointing out (with a smile) that he’s “in charge of research and development.”
The education part includes explaining the distilling process, as well as a little history about the family and its business. For example, Charbay doesn’t make the same wines every year and, in 1998 at Marko’s suggestion, began making clear and flavored vodkas (now the major seller, and made at a facility in Mendocino); it also produces whiskey, rum, liqueurs and pure agave tequila blanco (made by the Karakesevics in Mexico).
Visitors can taste what’s available on the property, which including wines, ports and aperitifs. They also learn about the spirits, but those aren’t on the tasting menu. (Have no fear, however, as the Karakesevics will point you toward where to find them. You can also find their whereabouts on Charbay’s website or its Facebook page. “Still Life” wine club members can choose a six- or 12-bottle yearly allocation, access to limited releases, complimentary tastings, food and cocktail recipes, discounts on shipments and orders and an invitation to the “world famous” annual pig roast (October 10, this year).
In the meantime, the tasting room experience moves beyond the typical with its variety of offerings and enthusiastic staff. The first thing you’ll notice is the large Alambic pot still that sits on the patio. It’s the same kind as the one at the Mendocino facility and will eventually make its way indoors when the family builds a larger distillery. You’ll be greeted, then led inside where you’ll find wine barrels, a smaller still where the brandy is made, and a small tasting bar, usually manned by Mark Raymond (from Aukland, New Zealand). This is where the fun begins…if it hasn’t already.
You’ll start with still wines. We enjoyed the 2007 Chardonnay (honey, vanilla, peach and citrus); 2006 Rosé (a floral nose and even a hint of chocolate); a 2003 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon (black licorice, blueberries and caramel, cedar and plum); and a 2005 “Stags Leap” Cabernet Sauvignon (cocoa, dark fruits, toffee). After those came a 1997 Ruby Port (dark sugar, toast, spice) as well as the “Still House” port, from the same vintage but aged an additional six years (smooth, nuts and spice); the Charbay dessert wine (the original “cocktail” in a bottle—brandy liqueur combined with Chardonnay), which is shaken with a citrus peel (very light and refreshing); and a 1983 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc (lightly carbonated with apricot and peach flavors).
Next came the Pomegranate Aperitif, served chilled with a squeeze of lime; the Green Tea Aperitif; and the lush Pomegranate Dessert Wine, which was first served straight, then poured over ice (which sweetened it a bit), then with club soda and a squeeze of lime. It was nice to see all the ways something can be enjoyed. Which is pretty much what the essence of a tasting at Charbay is all about. It’s certainly off the beaten path, and offers something you won’t find anywhere else.
Editor’s note: When you call for an appointment, mention this article and you’ll get 2-for-1 tasting fees.
Did You Know?
The name Charbay is a combination of the words “Chardonnay” and “brandy.” It’s “easier to say than Karakasevic!” says Marko.
