Who’d-a thunk it? The town that tourists used to drive right past on their way to eat in Yountville, Rutherford and St. Helena is now attracting some of the shiniest celebrities in the culinary universe. At one point over the summer, both Rachael Ray and Emeril Lagasse were prowling the city on the same day. The affable Lagasse, in Wine Country to record local segments for his new cable television program “Emeril Green,” made a point of touring the Oxbow Public Market, chatting with vendors as his production crew captured it all for a segment that’s expected to air next year.
Then came word that “Iron Chef” Masaharu Morimoto had signed the first restaurant lease in downtown Napa’s nearly completed Riverfront. That’s the colorful (but mostly unrented) mixed-use complex at the southeast corner of Main and Third streets, whose developer, Mike DeSimoni of Channel Properties, has been holding out for quality tenants as observers wondered whether the place would ever fill up. The Morimoto announcement was the first of several to hint that DeSimoni’s waiting game may pay off handsomely. The Japanese chef aims to debut his first sushi-bar concept restaurant in 7,500 square feet on the first floor of the complex—and he’ll have company: TV chef and cookbook author Tyler Florence has signed on to open a rotisserie restaurant in the Riverfront, which will also house a moderately priced seafood eatery operated by the Lark Creek Restaurant Group. All three new establishments are expected to be serving food by next summer, adding even more tasty options to an already flourishing downtown eating scene.
“Napa is breaking out,” says Ray Manzarek, a Los Angeles transplant who could probably live anywhere he wanted. Best known for his work as the keyboardist who gave the Doors their signature instrumental sound, he remains active and in demand as a performer, producer and writer. He and his wife, Dorothy, have called Napa home for some six years now, in large part because of the restaurants. “We eat so well here,” he says, smiling.
None of this is to say that all the good dining is in Napa now. Upvalley still holds many alluring establishments, from Yountville to Calistoga. And soon, they’ll be joined by a new enterprise on a heritage property in St. Helena, where the proprietors of Long Meadow Ranch are teaming up with the owner of Whiting Nursery to create a “farm-to-table” restaurant called Farmstead. Locally farmed and foraged food will form the backbone of the menu at Farmstead, which will be just part of an ambitious complex including a wine and olive oil tasting room, demonstration gardens, a full organic nursery and a seasonal outdoor farmers marketplace.
The 3-acre Whiting property, on Main Street (Hwy. 29) just south of central St. Helena, has an agricultural heritage dating from the 1870s. Long Meadow Ranch owners Ted, Laddie and Chris Hall have pledged to maintain the land using the traditional, sustainable and organic practices they already employ in their ranching and winemaking, and to restore the historic farmhouse to its classic Gothic architecture. Partner Kevin Twohey of Whiting Nursery says they hope to welcome guests to the property as early as this fall, while Ted Hall notes the ranch and nursery have a historic link: “Long Meadow Ranch was originally acquired via a patent grant to E. J. Church, which was signed by President Ulysses S. Grant in 1872,” he explains. “At about the same time, James Logan came to St. Helena at the direction of Grant to return Civil War casualties to California. He became the local mortician and used his cabinet-making skills to build this house and operate a small farm.”
According to Chris Hall, Farmstead will occupy the nursery’s renovated barn, serving moderately priced entrées (including a children’s menu) with an international wine list featuring sustainable producers. A covered, open-air market will offer the same organic fruits and vegetables, eggs, grass-fed beef and olive oils that Long Meadow Ranch has been selling at the St. Helena Farmers Market for the past 18 years. The partners also plan to offer educational seminars in their demonstration vineyard and gardens, to give visitors the chance to learn more about sustainable and organic farming practices. And, says Laddie Hall, after dining at the restaurant, “you’ll even be able to take the veggies and beef home, or buy the plants and seeds to grow your own!”
Meanwhile, Whiting Nursery, which has been in business since 1957, will continue operations at a second remodeled barn on the property, supplying organic nursery and farm products, organic livestock feed and equipment. The nursery will sell organic, locally grown vegetables, plants and trees and offer regular gardening workshops and other educational programs.
The entire property will be landscaped with drought-resistant plants and drip irrigation, while the kitchen will feature the latest approaches to energy and water efficiency. The partners have said they’ll use organic fabrics, recycled paper products and organic cleaning products, and Long Meadow Ranch will use its biodiesel-powered and electric trucks as service vehicles.
“We hope, by bringing together our fresh, local and sustainable food and wines with the Whiting Nursery in an easily accessible location with ample parking, that we’ll make this a ‘must-stop’ for our community, visitors, friends and family,” says Ted Hall. For more about Long Meadow Ranch and its LMR Rutherford Gardens growing operation, visit www.longmeadowranch.com.
