Pat Kuleto enjoys the finer things in life—and he wants you to enjoy them, too. He’s a renowned proprietor and designer, having designed more than 170 restaurants including San Francisco’s Farallon, Postrio and Boulevard, and his own Martini House, Nick’s Cove, Waterbar and beyond (far beyond). His estate winery, however, takes the experience to the next level.  

Kuleto purchased the mountainous 761-acre property, which overlooks Lake Hennessey, in the early 1990s. He’s since planted just under 100 acres of vineyards (Alberto Ochoa is vineyard manager) as well as olive and fruit tree groves and bountiful gardens. The structures on site are made largely of found materials—their stone exteriors made of those found on the property as well as that of neighboring Chappellet winery. Pat is a lifelong collector of found objects and antiques, and his resourceful use of them is evident. It gives the place an elegant, rustic beauty. It’s comfortable, fun and relaxed. Kuleto’s dogs, Pilot and Ponchita, followed us on our tour.

A visit begins in the main tasting room, which overlooks the property and some of its vineyards, and is furnished with plush leather seating, wooden tables, bistro tables and a wooden tasting bar. Toward the back is a glass wall that looks into the fermentation room. The tour begins with background information on Kuleto and his vision for the estate; in warmer months, a walking tour begins the flagstone patio and toward the first two pizza ovens you’ll come across (Kuleto says one should never be too far away from one). You’ll pass a large fountain as you head down a moderate slope toward Kuleto’s personal reproduction of Italy’s Amalfi Coast (long communal tables, terraced grounds, lanterns strung overhead among the oaks, and yes, more pizza ovens), which has views of the property’s Lake Brunello, which is fed by underground springs.

Providing its own water is only one way the estate works to be sustainable. It also serves vegetables, fruit and meats farmed on the property, all prepared by its executive chef, Janelle Weaver, for private food pairings and events.  

The property has 11 microclimates. You’ll see many of the vineyards during your tour, which continues past the gravity-flow winery (at the bottom level, which has two huge wooden doors made by master craftsman Bernard Espinet, who constructed much of the estate, which open into the barrel room), and up a slight grade, past a circular court with fountains and potted plants (“Lupita’s,” named after the groundskeeper who designed it and hand made its bricks) toward Kuleto’s home, Villa Cucina. There are vistas where you can see all the way to St. Helena’s downtown. The view improves even more as you come upon Kuleto’s infinity pool and guest house (which is rentable; as is a two-bedroom lodge). Villa Cucina is surrounded by oak trees and has outside patios for eating al fresco, complete with—yes, pizza ovens—dining furniture and a view that, when you’re standing in the right spot, looks as if the pond’s waterfall is feeding into the pool, which is then feeding into the lake.

On the other side of the house is the garden, where we saw capers, carrots, sweet peas, pomegranates, pears, corn, table grapes, herbs, beans, melons, squash, pumpkins, apples, persimmons, olive trees (the estate makes olive oil for its own use) and more. At this point the tour has come full-circle back to the winery, where it’s time to taste the current releases of the small-production wines (less than 8,000 cases are produced annually), each of which is paired with delicious artisan cheeses.

We tried the 2007 Chardonnay (lush mouthfeel, stone fruit, balanced acidity); the 2006 Zinfandel (dark fruit, minerals, currants, building layer of spice and pepper); the 2006 Syrah (dark, rich, masculine, with leather, tobacco and dark fruit; our well-informed and personable tour leader/wine educator, Rick Ceja, described it as “a wine you can chew”); the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (cedar, anise, silky mouthfeel, rich and dark, long finish); and the 2004 Villa Vista Cabernet Sauvignon (caramel, vanilla, high in acidity because it’s inspired by Sangiovese), which is one of several high-end Cabernets Kuleto produces. Winemaker Dave Lattin certainly uses his outstanding talents to create multilayered, beautiful wines that are as open, opulent and accessible as the estate where they’re grown.

 

Members Only

Kuleto Estate’s wine club is called the Kingfish Club—for those who like to eat like a king and drink like a fish. Members get complimentary tours and tastings, discounted pricing, access to limited production wines, invitations to parties and events and access to the estate for private celebrations. They receive five shipments of two to four bottles each year.

 

 

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