Syrah

Chef Josh Silvers is a busy man. Co-proprietor (with wife Regina) of the now 11-year-old Syrah and newly opened Jackson’s Bar and Oven (both in Railroad Square), he’s a restaurateur with drive and vision.

The Silvers moved to Sonoma County in 1999 to open Syrah and, to this day, it remains a local favorite. The menu changes seasonally and showcases locally grown foods. A chef’s tasting menu offers four or seven courses, with or without wine pairings from the extensive wine list (all are available from the adjacent shop, Petite Syrah). The main dining area has open-beam ceilings, large windows and warm colors. There are bar seats along the open kitchen, and then “outside” (a wide corridor with a fountain in the old brick building) there are more tables and a European feel.

Some J Sparkling NV Brut started us off (citrus, toast) with our first course of a thick, rich cauliflower soup with some golden raisins pureed in for a hint of sweetness, then a lemon-flavored olive oil drizzle for a citrus edge. Along with that, we enjoyed a roasted beet and baby arugula salad with Laura Chenel goat cheese (on request—it usually comes with Rogue River smoked blue cheese), toasted hazelnuts, a bit of frisée and a sweet golden balsamic-hazelnut vinaigrette.

A 2008 Conundrum white table wine (full-bodied and a bit sweet) went especially well with a tourchon of Sonoma foie gras (with a bit of coarse salt sprinkled on top), which was served with toasted house made challah bread slices, diced persimmons and a huckleberry gastrique—a perfect marriage of sweet and salty flavors made up this rich, elegant dish. We also had the grilled Monterey Bay sardines—a salt lover’s delight. Served with some pine nut and citrus herb gremolata and garlic crostini spread with a green olive tapenade, the meat came right off the bone for easy placement on the bread.

For entrées, I couldn’t resist the wild mushroom and Truffle Tremor (one of my all-time favorite cheeses) crespelle. Cut into three small, voluptuous triangles and covered with mushrooms and grilled scallions, the filling dish was well complemented by a glass of Wild Hog Pinot Noir (spice, cherries, earth). They truly sang together.

The “something from the sea” was a thick filet of Mahi Mahi, pan seared crisp on the edges and tender inside. Served atop a bed of Yukon gold mashed potatoes, it was accented with a chanterelle cream sauce, haricot verts (petite green beans) and root vegetables. It was a lovely trip for the taste buds along with  some Far Niente Chardonnay (vanilla, butter, clean finish).

Dessert was a slice of creamy chocolate peanut butter pie with house made vanilla bean ice cream and chocolate sauce and a glass of Rodney Strong True Gentlemen’s Port (think chocolate-covered blackberries), which went great together and were an excellent end to the delicious meal.