Left Bank Larkspur
507 Magnolia Ave.
Larkspur
(415) 927-3331
www.leftbank.com
French Brasserie
Lunch and dinner daily; brunch Sundays
Entrées (dinner): $16.50-$19.95
Full bar; great wine list
Larkspur
(415) 927-3331
www.leftbank.com
French Brasserie
Lunch and dinner daily; brunch Sundays
Entrées (dinner): $16.50-$19.95
Full bar; great wine list
Housed in the historic Blue Rock Inn in downtown Larkspur, Left Bank is a long-time local favorite. The place is bustling and open feeling with high ceilings, large exterior windows, a turn-of-the-century mahogany bar, huge stone fireplace and an outdoor terrace for al fresco dining.
With a bar like that, cocktails are in order (some interesting nonalcoholic mixes are available too). We started with a Normandy sidecar, which is served up and made with calvados, mandarin liqueur and fresh lemon, garnished with an orange twist and a sugared rim. The Amelia Earhardt is an interesting twist on a margarita—served on the rocks and with a salted rim, it has cazadores tequila, lime and pomegranate juice.
On to the paté of the day (Executive Chef Sean Canavan makes it in house), which was an indulgent way to start out: a truffled foie gras mousse served with chutney, stone ground mustard, tiny dill pickles and warm, toasted crostini. Its salty, fatty and rich flavors were complemented well by the sweet chutney and crunchy crostini.
The house smoked trout came with pickled beets, frisée, fingerling potatoes, sliced mini dill pickles and green beans dressed in a flavorful vinaigrette with a drizzle of horseradish crème fraiche. It was served with a 2008 Domaine Auchere Sauvignon Blanc, which balanced the smoky, moist, very fresh flavors absolutely perfectly. (The staff paired all our dishes with its French-heavy wine list and did a phenomenal job.)
Next came the sautéed prawns appetizer, served in a rich lemon and garlic butter sauce with salty Nicoise olives, sweet fresh tomatoes and basil leaves. It was paired with a fruity 2008 Domaine de Fontsainte dry Grenache-Syrah Rosé, which created a melodic contrast between the dish’s heavier and sweeter elements, with the basil bringing everything together.
A toasty, buttery 2008 Domaine Saint Francois Chardonnay (Meursault) enveloped the night’s special of large, incredibly tender dayboat sea scallops, seared golden and placed atop a parsnip and potato purée with a lobster truffle sauce (which reminded me of bisque) and exotic mushrooms. Our second entrée was roasted duck breast, served medium rare with crisp, fatty skin and whole huckleberry sauce alongside hazelnut Spatzle and braised red cabbage. It was served with a 2007 Bouchaine Pinot Meunier (spicy, silky with a cherry nose).
All dishes were generous portions, both in quality and quantity, including dessert. The vanilla-rich crème brulée had a perfectly golden top and ideal texture, while the profiteroles (there were three) had light pastry crusts filled with thick, rich vanilla bean gelato and a semisweet chocolate sauce (poured over them at the table). They were a delicious end to a well-served meal in a happy, chatter-filled and attractive atmosphere.
