Ubuntu

There’s likely no more appropriate restaurant to review in our green issue than Ubuntu. Located inside a 19th century building in downtown Napa, its space (which also includes an annex and a yoga studio) was transformed using recycled products throughout, with a menu created entirely from local gardens, including its own biodynamic garden—overseen by master gardener Jeff Dawson—from which much of the restaurant’s food is produced. Even its name, which owner Sandy Lawrence discovered while in South Africa, stems from a philosophy emphasizing community, sharing and generosity.

Executive Chef Aaron London—who’s been with the restaurant since shortly after its inception, working his way up from line cook to chef de cuisine—took the helm when Jeremy Fox left this past February. His menu changes daily, depending on what garden ingredients are in season and available (you can check the website to view the current bounty), coming up with creations that are inspired and, ultimately, some of the most interesting and unusual stuff I’ve seen—and every dish comes out looking like a piece of artwork.

Our meal started with an amuse of tiny carrots, flavorful micro greens and sweet apple rounds with fennel and crème fraîche, coupled with a delicious French sparkling Rosé off the international wine list. Next came some marinated “ruby queen” beets (all colors) with goat-almond horchata (which was actually in the form of foam), shungiku (edible chrysanthemum greens) crushed avocado, pickled rhubarb and a cake of red quinoa. The rhubarb lent a tart effect to the otherwise sweet dish, while the quinoa and avocado added an earthy, savory layer.

The orion fennel and fig leaf gazpacho was a chilled vegan soup that was bright green in both color and flavor. It was poured atop a green (not ripened) black mission fig and fennel confit with Meyer lemon and smoked pecans that lent texture and depth of flavor. A drizzle of oil completed the experience.

Next came “early summer presents” of buttery potatoes, crumbled egg yolks and alliums with sweet red tropia onion, green garlic emulsion and bright green legumes. Following that was some horseradish gnocchi, seared golden and mixed with a sheep and goat milk cream, with thin-sliced amethyst radishes and a fava bean puree with hakeuri turnips.

A filling, savory strawberry dish followed, with creamy Arbuckle grits, caramelized fennel, rich goat’s milk ricotta and New Zealand spinach.

We went for a vegan milkshake with almond milk and bananas (very light and tasty) along with our desserts. First was an aerated “tcho” chocolate cake, very rich and dense, with savory smoked cherries and dots of tarragon puree, with cherry pit ice cream (just the flavor of the cherries, not the actual pits!). Last was a very creamy, delicious white chocolate “dulce de leche” bar with bits of rhubarb and a small scoop of ice cream.