Make your next wine tasting sojourn a memorable experience by visiting one of these unique wine bars.
The secret room
At the corner of Healdsburg Avenue and North Street in Healdsburg, you’ll find what appears from the outside to be a charming boutique where you can buy great cocktail napkins or original glassware—somewhere to purchase a housewarming gift or a special little something for yourself. Why would this shop be called Prohibition? Because there’s more to it than initially meets the eye. Inside, it’s quite small, and in the rear corner is a jet black, old-fashioned phone booth, the kind Clark Kent might have entered before reemerging as Superman. But when you step into this booth and push on the back wall, the panel swings open and you find yourself walking into a speakeasy—only this isn’t a smoke-filled, illicit mobster hangout. It’s a hip wine bar.
Prohibition bar is a modern version of the true, Prohibition-era speakeasies, where a store or other business was often a front for a hidden bar. From 1920 to 1933, the sale, manufacture and transportation of alcohol for consumption were banned nationally, following Congress’ signing of the Eighteenth Amendment of the United States Constitution into law. Prohibition didn’t stop people from drinking, and disrespect for the law was widespread—New York City alone had about 30,000 speakeasies. Richard Rosenberg, who owns Prohibition in Healdsburg with his wife, Kae, has always had a fascination with the era, inspired by family stories of his grandfather’s bootlegging years. His grandfather ran a laundry in Paterson, New Jersey; the site had a large, hidden back room that was turned into a bar during Prohibition. “All the local gangsters used to hang out there,” says Rosenberg.
Rosenberg and his wife moved to Sonoma County 11 years ago from Los Angeles, where he was a producer and an entertainment lawyer. They purchased the Grapeleaf Inn and, with the help of award-winning Denver architect John Yonushewski, designed an updated addition that included a state-of-the-art kitchen, dining room, lobby and five stunning new guest rooms with private fireplaces. Rosenberg also needed somewhere to store and serve his wines, so they began to design a wine cellar. Kae, a writer and big mystery fan, thought it would be fun to hide the cellar’s entrance behind a bookcase—an idea that was compatible with her husband’s interest in speakeasies. When the opportunity to open Prohibition became available, it was a natural fit.
Kae also crafted the layout and design of Prohibition and procured all the old newspapers plastered along the glass wall separating the store from the bar. Mug shots of Al Capone, Tommy Dillinger, Bugs Moran and other notorious fedora wearers jump out from yellowed clippings alongside entertainment pages featuring stars of the day including Tallulah Bankhead and Mary Pickford. The prohibition staple, a Tommy gun, rests above the stylish, wood-and-glass Cruvinet (a temperature-controlled wine dispensing system) that features 25 wines from small production and boutique wineries, so patrons can purchase “hooch by the glass.” Rosenberg makes it a point to serve wines in his bar that aren’t a common find in other places. Upscale, local wines are highlighted along with one or two international finds worth discovering.
Our server offers me and my trusty research assistant (aka husband) a sample of their wine-based margaritas and cosmopolitans. I’m not usually a big fan of wine-based cocktails, however I find the drinks to be extremely authentic, not just a sugary substitute. The bar also offers other creations, like the Raspberry Truffle, a popular after dinner drink comprised of chilled zinfandel, crème de cocoa and raspberry liquor. Chocolate shavings perch the rim of the martini glass for a perfect liquid dessert. San Francisco Speakeasy Brewery beers and ales, refreshing and perfectly themed, are also available for those wishing to quaff something besides wine. Small bites such as goat cheese torte, gorgonzola crème brulee, chocolate covered strawberries, and sea salt and olive oil crostini are made at the inn and available for purchase on the weekends.
Prohibition also has its own Speakeasy wine club, featuring assorted wines that Rosenberg has discovered. Members can decide how much wine they’d like to purchase each year, ranging from two to 12 bottles, and receive discounts on stays at the Grapeleaf Inn and drinks purchased at Prohibition.
No ordinary garage
On Highway 29 in Calistoga sits an unassuming, sage-colored block of a building that could easily be missed if you weren’t looking for it. It used to be a service station and tire shop, and inside, you’ll still find a couple of pumps—but no sign of gasoline. Instead, the nozzles protruding from the wall of the back room are made to dispense custom-blended wines into half-gallon jugs. The Bordeaux is a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Merlot and Petit Verdot, and the Rhone blend consists of Syrah, Zinfindel, Grenache, Mourvedre and Petite Sirah. Each container holds the equivalent of more than 2.5 bottles and, at $29.99, is a bargain for quality wine.
Founders Todd Miller and Joy Mesick were trying to make a point—and a living—when they opened their Calistoga wine shop in 2003, featuring great tasting wines that cost $25 or less per bottle. Many naysayers thought they were crazy for trying to sell inexpensive wine to residents of Napa Valley. The couple moved to St. Helena to start a family after they married in 2000. Miller had been running a successful recruiting firm specializing in Internet and telecom services, and they’d been living in San Francisco, where Mesick was general manager of Pottery Barn’s flagship store. After the move, Miller continued to run his office from his new home, and their daughter was born on September 11, 2001. Months later, The WorldCom scandal shook the stock market and, within the first 45 days, Miller lost 75 percent of his clients to bankruptcy.
Not long after that, during a casual conversation, a local winemaker told Miller he couldn’t afford to drink his own wine on a regular basis. Miller felt strongly there was a need for a wine shop that catered to people looking for drinkable, good value wine for everyday consumption. With his primary business revenue shrinking, the couple opened up Wine Garage with the last of their savings. To conserve money, Miller did as much of the labor as he could, including laying the floor and installing the lighting. The interior is bare and sleek, with brightly colored walls adorned with vibrant paintings and black-and-white photography from local artists. Wines are displayed on neatly stacked cardboard boxes—no fancy racks or shelving.
Miller soon realized that even purchasing wine wholesale wouldn’t give him the profit margin he needed to earn a living. “I originally started searching for deals in Amador and Santa Barbara counties. I’d been to the school of hard knocks, negotiating in the Internet world, and I knew how to network and build relationships,” he says. He went directly to wineries and bargained for good prices. Along the way, he got to know proprietors in Mendocino, Sonoma and Napa counties as well as other areas where grapes were being grown in California. (The Wine Garage initially sold some imports, but now focuses on only California wines.) In the second year of business, it doubled its first year’s revenue and things kept getting better from there.
One part of the business that saw growth last year was wine club membership, which accounts for 65 percent of Wine Garage business. When Miller and Mesick considered starting the club, they emailed 870 regular customers to see if anyone would be interested in joining. Usual response to such a blast would bring a return of 1 to 15 percent, but their response was overwhelming: 560 people instantly wanted to become members.
Most wine club members have visited the store and are people who entertain a lot. Miller and Mesnick purchase $1 million worth of wine annually just to keep their wine club members well stocked. Members live all over the United States and will even call the store when they’re having a special event and need something palatable and affordable to serve, trusting the quality of the wine they’ll get, hand-picked by Miller himself. Regular wine club offerings include six bottles for about $100, shipped six times per year.
Wine club members also have first dibs on the great buys Miller finds along his travels. He recently chanced upon a winery that was going out of business and had lots of backed-up inventory. He negotiated a great price, sent an email out to his customers to see how many people were interested, then placed an order and shipped the wine directly without having to store any inventory. It was the kind of deal that made everyone happy.
In 2006, Wine Garage became a bonded winery, providing Miller with the opportunity to use his contacts to find grape deals and make his own wine. The current offerings include three Cabernet Sauvignons, a white blend called Joy Ride, a Sauvignon Blanc and a 2007 Pinot Noir (that’s already sold out). Locals still flock to Wine Garage for consistent deals and Miller’s jug wine blends from premier winemakers’ extra barrels. Wine Garage jugs are on sale at Sunshine Foods Market in St. Helena and Browns Valley Market in Napa, and the wine is also sold at 17 Napa Valley restaurants. (Wine Garage products are also available in a limited number of outlets in the San Diego area.)
Wine by railway
Where can you learn regional history and wine tasting tips, access hard-to-find wines and dine on some of the area’s most delectable food, all while basking in the beauty of Napa Valley’s many vineyards? The Napa Valley Wine Train adventure starts at the station in downtown Napa and takes its guests on a three-hour odyssey centered around fine food and wine. In a comfortable waiting room, guests have access to a gift shop, wine bar and a wine store featuring more than 450 different wines.
Once all passengers are gathered, a wine educator walks them through a tasting of two wines, usually one white and one red (each guest receives a sample of each to try). Our educator is Mike Delacy, and his lecture is part history, part wine education and a little comedy rolled into one. Passengers then board the train and make their way to the car where they’ve purchased seats: the dome car (the most extravagant meal with the most expansive views), the Gourmet Express (full course meals served in an elegant 1915-17 Pullman car) or the Silverado Express (the most casual car, where dining is a la carte and the windows open fully). On board, in addition to dining rooms and lounge cars, you’ll find three kitchens (one with glass windows for observing the chefs), full cocktail service and a car devoted entirely to wine tasting.
Ryan Graham, director of wine, hand selects and tastes all of the wine found on the train and in the wine shop. He works closely with nationally known executive chef Kelly Macdonald to bring great wines to the menu selection process. Both gentlemen have extremely challenging jobs—meeting the demands of a well-versed regional crowd as well as visitors from all around the globe. Macdonald always checks the guest list to see if there’s a large tour group on board. He’s learned that certain cultures might have taste or menu preferences, such as the Japanese and their love of fresh fish, or that Chinese visitors are fond of American beef. He enjoys introducing diners to locally sourced and grown meats, fish, produce and cheeses in innovative, delicious and beautifully presented dishes. Even the olive oil he uses is from Napa Valley. With as many as 50 or more special requests each day, there’s never a dull moment. Luckily, both men are passionate about their work. “I get to taste great wine and meet new people all the time; I love my job,” says Graham.
The train meanders through the valley, past lush vineyards at speeds of 12 and 18 miles per hour, but if you’re having trouble walking on the moving train, Brandi Jo McGinnis, maitre d’ of onboard services, will instruct you on how to position yourself for extra leverage. The attentive staff likewise pays close attention to each passenger’s needs, making it clear that service is a top priority.
On the trip to St. Helena, the wine tasting car is located at the front of the train, right behind the engine. But for the return trip to Napa, the locomotives are moved to the south side of the train, leaving the tasting car to act as the caboose. Passengers are encouraged to take their glasses out on the observation deck to breathe in the fresh valley fragrances. In 2001, the Napa Valley Wine Train was the first company in the nation to convert a locomotive to compressed natural gas (CNG), which is essentially odorless and smokeless, a non-corrosive and efficient fuel source.
As we travel, Delacy pours tastes for appreciative patrons (more than 100 bottles are available for purchase or guests can bring their own bottle and pay a corkage fee). He’s a master at matching the tasting wines to myriad palates. At one point, to determine a wine choice, he asks a customer if he drinks coffee with sugar or cream. His next question is “Do you like your lemonade sweet or sour?” Based on the answers, he finds a wine that’s suitable.
Ray Bautista from San Francisco is taking the train for the first time with his girlfriend, who moved to the city from North Carolina only four days earlier. “I’m a beer and Captain Morgan kinda guy,” he tells Delacy. The wine host doesn’t hesitate, pulling a bottle from the shelf pouring a taste into a glass. Bautista is pleased with the choice.
Like so many others working on the train, Delacy is from Napa Valley. His mother was the sixth employee hired by the Wine Train (when he was only 8 years old), and his various jobs around the valley eventually led him back to his roots.
New events are always being added to the Wine Train schedule, like the Sinatra family wine dinner that took place in August, and an ever-changing array of winemaker dinners and vintner lunches, along with seasonal activities like the Santa Train and specially themed holiday rides. Napa County residents and a guest receive a 50 percent discount off their train fares for Gourmet Express or Silverado Express, so don’t wait until you have visitors to partake in this wine and food extravaganza.
Now that you’ve heard about these unique wine tasting venues, give them a try and let us know about other cool, quirky and fun venues you’ve visited. After all, variety is the spice of life.
