850 Lamont Ave.
Novato
(415) 893-1892
www.hilltop1892.com
California Cuisine
Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat., Brunch and dinner Sundays
Entrées (dinner): $12.75-$29.75
Full bar, nice wine list
Originally a home, Hilltop 1892 (named for the year it was built) has been a landmark in Novato for more than 100 years. It first became a restaurant in the 1930s and has been through several incarnations since. Its latest, a fully refurbished space, opened this past summer. With Chef Jack Harris (formerly of Tra Vigne, Bistro Jeanty and Domaine Chandon) at the helm, its seasonal brunch, lunch and dinner menus specialize in meats, but also offer vegetarian, fish and pasta choices.
The entryway is lined with beautiful landscaping and, once inside, you’ll find a large, rectangular bar with plenty of stools as well as a lounge area with a hilltop view toward the bay. The main dining room looks west with a sweeping view of Novato and beyond. Classic jazz plays on the sound system, and the service is prompt and professional.
Chilled martinis and fresh Tomales Bay miyagi oysters served with a flavorful frozen lemon ginger vodka granita started our meal. After that, the honey mustard-crusted tombo tuna appetizer arrived, with two wedges that were lightly battered and pan-seared rare atop a spicy slaw of greens, garlic, hot peppers and carrots. Not for anyone afraid of a little heat, it was a great combination of savory flavors and crisp to plush textures.
The Caesar salad had baby hearts of romaine with a mild avocado-Caesar dressing, topped with parmesan crisps, shaved parmesan and white anchovies.
The soup of the day was sweet corn in a vegetable stock base with a touch of cream, drizzled with chili oil. Served hot and garnished with pico de gallo, it was absolutely delicious. The soup and salad were paired with an oaky 2008 Benziger Chardonnay (which went best with the salad) and an elegant 2007 Robert Stemmler Chardonnay.
A large, extremely tender and thick-cut orange-braised short rib was our first entrée. It came with a buttery potato puree (with a hint of horseradish) as well as halved baby carrots, peas and a drizzle of red wine reduction sauce. The 2008 Joel Gott Cabernet Sauvignon was paired with it.
A bright 2009 Hess Chardonnay (Shirtail Creek Valley, Monterey) accompanied the California halibut, which was lightly seasoned, pan roasted and served atop an almond-crusted cauliflower gratin alongside a chilled baby artichoke and cherry tomato salad dressed with tangy vinaigrette. The flavors were light and satisfying.
For dessert, we first went for the chocolate waffle with caramelized banana slices, topped with creamy bourbon pecan ice cream (by Fiorello’s Italian Ice Cream of San Rafael). We also had the brioche toffee bread pudding with Fiorello’s vanilla gelato and surrounded by cinnamon crème anglaise. Piled high, rich in flavor and served warm, it was crisp on top with a moist interior—something this bread pudding fan always seeks.
