Well, it’s been an interesting year so far. Realize that I’m writing this several weeks ahead of you reading it. I point this out since we’ve been dodging bullets for months, and have maybe been hit by some by now. Since the first of the year, I’ve been afraid of what may happen between me writing and you reading. We’ve dodged the spring frost bullet, which delayed a showdown between growers, environmentalists and others involved in our current water situation. Because we didn’t need to frost protect with water this year, there wasn’t any substantial monitoring of or studying the impact on the Russian River and the endangered species we’re supposedly trying to save.
Last year, a reasonable agreement seemed to have been reached between growers, county supervisors and other interested parties. Then, at the last minute, a couple of apparently self-serving growers decided to bitch and moan about not wanting to be identified, which pretty well sabotaged the agreement. Is lynching still legal? With the amount of water available this year, it would seem if the guardians of the water gates and the growers could work together, maybe flow could be increased for that short time—or is that too simple?
OK, we dodged that bullet. Then came along one of the wettest springs in recent history. It was next to impossible to get into the vineyards to apply protective sprays against all of the wet weather fungi that love to grow on vines and destroy crops. (Those growers who practice no-till farming had less of a problem due to more solid ground. This was one of my favorite projects, and I was the first to do so at Shone Farm.)
From that point on, the big problem has been the constant rain during the most sensitive period of vine growth throughout the year: bloom. Rain is absolutely disastrous during bloom. There’s a little cap that’s over the flower and, unlike other flowering plants, when these “petals” get wet, they act like a wet dishrag over the floral parts that produce fruit. If you like big words to use at the next cocktail party, ask about a “persistent calyptra” and see the response. That’s the technical term for the wet dishrag. Bloom time in each region and for each variety varies, but the extended wet period probably caught most vineyards to some degree. At least the Pinot Noir winemakers will be happy, since they don’t want much fruit anyway. It also appears that, this year, they’re unwilling to pay as much for grapes as in the past anyway. I personally know of three different contracts that have gone from $4,000 down to $2,500 per ton. Does that mean since the grower is getting screwed, the wine price might drop down to affordability? After a 16 percent drop last year, will grape prices continue to fall? (And would you believe the dairy industry saw a 20 percent increase? Cheese and wine are a great combination.) There are lots of unknowns, and it’s not a fun situation for growers.
It used to be a standard joke that farmer math always ensured a loss because they’re never happy. It went like this: My budget says I should net $250,000, but I only made $125,000. Therefore, I lost $125,000. I probably should add a few more zeros, but you get my point as they buy their new pickup every year and a new BMW for the missus. Looks like only the vineyard management companies will be buying trucks and tractors this year.
I’m not sure if this a bullet or just a BB gun, but at Healdsburg’s newest high-end restaurant, Shimo, Chef Douglas Keane has decided he’s selling more beer, cocktails and sake than he is wine, and will forego a wine list but offer a limited supply of wine by the glass. This is Wine Country? The flipside is you can bring your own wine with no corkage fee. I can have my gin and tonic and still have wine and be able to afford it!
More about buying (selling) wine. A new bill in the state grab bag would prohibit alcohol sales through self-checkouts. The theory is that minors and/or already drunk people can buy and are a danger to society. Police departments have endorsed the bill, as have the United Food and Commercial Workers Union (UFCW) and Mother’s Against Drunk Drivers. This seems to be a problem that’s just surfacing, but I should remind you that I recently wrote about the state of Pennsylvania’s wine kiosks and their issues. A lightning bolt strikes me and I ask why the UFCW would be for this? Zap! They don’t give a damn, they just don’t want self-checkouts period, because it means less jobs. Retailers say they have enough protections in place to prevent most thievery and prevent sales to minors.
My final shot is another old friend who either I agree with or vice-versa, but it’s about the plight of Syrah. He’s offered two reasons: The production of some very poor quality wines on the low end (both California and Australia) and overpriced on the high end. These agree with my thoughts, but I think we’ve fumbled on the learning curve with both growing and making. Shiraz, as in Penfold’s Grange, is considered the finest red wine in the world and comes from Shiraz fruit raised in the Barossa Valley in South Australia. (Proudly, I say that for four of the last five years, my daughters have had fruit go to the Grange program at $10,000+ per ton.)
OK, fun time is over. Head to Healdsburg where locals can’t afford to go out and enjoy our ambiance on weekends—but that’s OK, parking isn’t available anyway. (Bring your bottle a day to dinner.)
