After two decades, ZAP continues to further the reputation of this great heritage varietal.
Zinfandel, once viewed as the “underdog” of grape varietals, has in recent years begun to garner top dog status as America’s heritage wine, thanks in large part to Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP), which this year celebrates 20 years of service with more than 3,300 members—huge strides given the organization’s humble beginnings. “In 1991, 22 vintners and 42 members attended the first Zinfandel Festival,” says Rebecca Robinson, executive director of ZAP. “This past year, we had more than 10,000 people and more than 200 vintners. For a wine organization to achieve that level of growth and generate that much interest in a varietal, it’s a milestone in and of itself.”
“It’s been an interesting 20 years,” says Bruce Walker, partner and president of the Sonoma-based Starry Night Winery and ZAP board member. “When we started out, Zinfandel wasn’t ‘in vogue,’ but ZAP has brought it to the forefront of red wines.
“We created the benchmark for Zinfandel in the United States much like France had done with Bordeaux and Germany with Riesling. Zinfandel is uniquely American. It became the foundation of the entire California wine industry.”
The organization has maintained steadfast growth over the last two decades, which can be attributed to a constant stream of well-attended events, varietal-defining scientific research and a “come-one-come-all” approach to membership. The group welcomes consumers, vintners, educators, collectors and more, believing each adds to the organization’s broad, mainstream appeal. Robinson speaks to the roots of ZAP’s success: “It’s about preservation, research, and education. We’re a nonprofit with a mission to educate people in the broader context. From the very beginning, ZAP has involved not just the vintners but the consumer advocates.”
Beyond its open approach to membership, ZAP stretched further by forging key partnerships early on. One such alliance, with UC Davis, proved pivotal for not only the organization’s expansion but, with the launch of the Heritage Vineyard Project in 1995, in fostering longevity for the varietal.
Strength at the roots
No one could argue against ZAP’s strength as an organization, but the same couldn’t always be said about the Zinfandel varietal. In 1990, UC Davis Foundation Plant Services (FPS) had certified only four selections of Zinfandel for commercial distribution to California nurseries. Without additional rootstock to infuse diversity, the growth of the varietal was threatened. ZAP saw the problem and established the Heritage Vineyard Project as a solution. “It started with James Wolpert [Viticulture Extension Specialist at UC Davis], who was hearing from the industry that they weren’t happy with the [Zinfandel] material available. So he said, ‘Let’s collect these samples of vines and study them in the regions they grow,” Robinson shares.
In 1993 and ’94, UC Davis embarked upon a statewide search for and collection of rare Zinfandel vine cuttings. In 1997, ZAP began funding the project; to date. ZAP has donated more than $400,000. “The initial 90 plantings were collected from around the state and planted in a one-acre vineyard in the Oakville Research Station. Phase two took 22 of those original selections and planted them in a 2.4 acre vineyard, which let us have more of each selection out in the vineyard,” she shares. “With that, we were able to do small lot winemaking, which was important because vintners want to know how it’s going to taste in the end.”
The program has been wildly received in the community. “Zinfandel is our own grape, so by going out and collecting these 70-plus-year-old samples, we’re getting to see the genetic diversity of Zinfandel, in hopes of narrowing it down to the best clones to continue making Zinfandels better in the future,” says Duane Dappen of Napa’s D-Cubed Cellars, who completed his second consecutive term as ZAP president in June.
Stretching the roots
Hope for the future was the draw for Josh Beckett, head winemaker for his family’s Paso Robles Peachy Canyon Winery. “It’s huge to be able to preserve a California varietal. And it’s also exciting to be a part of what we look at as a 100-year project. This will be in textbooks 20 years from now.”
ZAP and the heritage program have been a family affair since the start. Beckett’s father, Doug, served on the heritage committee and has been a long-time member of its board. The heritage project, though still in its infancy, achieved marked results in 2009 when FPS released 19 Zinfandel selections to local nurseries.
Phase three stands to be one of the most impactful yet, as the heritage experiment extends beyond the Oakville Research Center to include replicated trials in Sonoma and Dry Creek Valleys in Sonoma County, and Paso Robles in San Luis Obispo County. The fruits of this expansion will bear data on the regional impacts to clonal selections and how those variations will play out in the wine bottle. “If you love a Zinfandel you had in Napa, and it’s planted in Paso, it’s not going to taste the same,” says Beckett.
In 2009, the Becketts became one of the regional Heritage Project participants when they earmarked one acre of their 80-acre Mustang Springs Ranch to the cause. “This experimental block we planted will let grower/buyers be more accurate in their purchases,” says Beckett. “This is about the future of Zinfandel. We’re going back in history—keeping and preserving these selections. If it’s done correctly, we’ll understand these different selections, so that the right selections are planted in the right places, which, in the end, will make a better Zinfandel and continue to keep people excited.”
In addition to clonal studies, each year ZAP appoints a member winemaker to develop the Heritage Wine for that year’s vintage (the Heritage Wine is only available for tasting or sale at ZAP events). Diane Wilson of the Dry Creek Wilson Family Winery served as winemaker for the 2010 vintage.
Current President Robert Biale of Robert Biale Vineyards in Napa (who also served as ZAP president in 2001), speaks to the significance of the project. “As farmers, we love to have options. And as winemakers, we love to have different flavor profiles. This is really going to help farmers and the winemaking community. It’s been the most important scientific project that ZAP has done in the last 20 years.”
The sentiment of “choice” echoes for others. “These Zinfandel choices from FPS are the only ones where you can go online and get growth data, production, grape count, cutting weight, all these parameters that are attached to these clones. You can’t get this type of vine growth data for any other varietal. For someone who’s going to plant, this is key. It gives growers and winemakers a choice that just wouldn’t have been possible otherwise,” says Dappen.
“The work the organization is doing now is the future of the varietal. It will continue to give benefits to growers and consumers for decades to come,” says Walker.
Sowing the seeds of partnerships
Key partnerships and timing have played an instrumental role in ZAP’s strength as an organization. In addition to the partnership with UC Davis, ZAP has also teamed with City College of San Francisco. “We started out doing one of our events there, and it went so well, we went on to underwrite the school’s wine program. City College partners with us at Epicuria, one of the festival events.”
Another notable pairing came in September 2010, when ZAP launched a $500,000 scholarship at Sonoma State University’s Wine Business Institute (WBI). “The goal is to raise half a million dollars for the endowment. To date, we’ve raised almost $60,000 for the first scholarships, and this past spring we awarded our first two.
“It’s been exciting to collaborate with the institute, since we have to educate and continue that stream of new blood,” Robinson enthuses. “SSU has one of the only masters programs devoted to wine in the country and is a leading institute for wine study.” The scholarship honors founding board member and past ZAP President Donn P. Reisen (of Ridge Vineyards), who passed away in 2009.
“Marilyn Reisen and the leadership of ZAP are great partners in our vision of becoming the global leader in wine business research and education. The scholarships support and honor our talented students, who are poised to become the next generation of entrepreneurs and leaders of the wine industry,” says Ray Johnson, director of WBI.
In addition to ZAP’s work with these institutions, it funds numerous other projects, including the evaluation of Sierra Foothill Zinfandel Selections, the development of the Zinfandel Aroma Wheel, the publication of the Zinfandel Resource Guide, Zinposium conferences and other educational programs.
Keeping things spicy
ZAP events continue to wow crowds with spicy headliners, like this year’s Nadia G. from Cooking Channel’s “Bitchin’ Kitchen.” More buzz-worthy items are planned for next year, starting with enhanced programing and a venue shift for Zinfandel Festival 2012. The event will move from Fort Mason Center, which has served as host for many years, to The Concourse on Eighth and Brannan in San Francisco. “This is an exciting move; it will be the first time in 10 years that all of the wineries will reunite under one roof,” says Robinson. “Our first event, Epicuria: Food & Zinfandel Pairings, features 50 Zinfandel wineries and 50 chefs and restaurants at The Concourse.
As in years past, four Festival events will span three days (January 26 to 28, 2012) with fan favorites like “Flights” and “Winemaker Dinners” taking place at the Westin St. Francis Hotel. The festivities culminate with the Grand Tasting at the Concourse on the final day of the festival.
“It’s huge what ZAP contributes to the wine industry,” says Biale. “It reminds us that we aren’t doing this alone. There are hundreds of wineries promoting Zinfandel. It also reminds us of our consumers—God bless those advocates. They show up at our tastings and are so excited. They love ‘Flights’ when we dive into a particular aspect of a vineyard and theme. One of my favorites is AVAs, showing the best of the appellations: Zinfandel, at its best, in all of these different regions. It reminds us we can make a huge impact.”
A flourishing future
For Robinson, the 20-year mark provides an opportunity to reflect on the varietal’s rise beyond its underdog roots to its hard-earned “heritage” status today. It’s a milestone she credits to the active ZAP membership base. “ZAP is a robust community that wouldn’t exist without its volunteers,” she says. “Since the beginning, people have had a passion for this varietal, from all aspects. It’s important for us to continue to grow our community of impassioned wine consumers by providing education that enhances their lives.
“People are challenged by many choices today. We want to make Zinfandel accessible and understandable. Our direction is to continue to educate and excite people about Zinfandel.
“One example is the development of our winemaking workshops. In the new facility [on Brannan in San Francisco], we’ll be able to enhance that. In the Grand Tasting, we’re letting small groups engage with winemakers and learn about vineyards and old vines. We did some of this before, but the new building will let us do even more. And of course, there’s no substitute for getting the wines tasted by the trade and to the people who will be drinking it.”
In addition to the festival’s programming enhancements, she’s equally pleased with those roots that were planted early on. “One of the strengths of the organization has been our ability to maintain a strong foundation of committed vintners. [Members] are getting into second and third generations—the Maurtisons, Joel Petersen and his son. You’re seeing that development as life and people evolve and get into the next generation. Seeing that enthusiasm is exciting,” she shares.
Others credit ZAP’s success to its broad appeal to not only winemakers and growers, but to its fun-loving consumer base. “The advocates are always increasing. They’re the best voice for Zinfandel. They’re doing it from their heart, they love it and enjoy sharing it with their friends. With the growth of our advocates, we’re trying to modernize our approach to communication. More email blasts, honing our events, serving them even better than before,” says Dappen. “The history of California winemaking begins with Zinfandel. It’s about sharing the story and getting the message out.
“Since ZAP began, we’ve done road tours in almost every major U.S. city as well as internationally. The United States has just surpassed France in wine consumption, but there is still a lot of education to do. It’s all part of the process,” says Robinson.
Still, despite two decades of growth, some labels from the past continue to stick. “When we go across the country, some still ask, ‘white Zin?’ We still have work to do in educating people in more remote sections of the country. People hear about Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. Zinfandel is never going to be the largest selling varietal, but it’s always maintained quality, price, value and versatility. I think it’s going to continue to gain prominence, and I think ZAP is going to have a lot to do with this,” says Walker.
With an avid fan base around the globe, an actively committed bunch of vintners and many more angling to join the pack, ZAP is poised to make this next decade even more fruitful than the last. “We want to continue that tradition of farming Zinfandel that started in the mid-1800s. ZAP is the tool that hits it head on—staying at the roots, farming the Heritage Project, diving into that clonal experience and how the grape yields different flavors. People really love that about Zinfandel. As we move forward, we also want to remember our founding members—Margaret Smith, Jerry Seps, and then Joel Peterson and Paul Draper. They put in endless hours. It’s a labor of love,” says Biale.
“It’s about reminding people what’s been going on in the Zinfandel community as ZAP enters its third decade. Zinfandel has a great long tradition, and ZAP reminds people and wineries that Zinfandel is a varietal worth keeping. People continue to enjoy the wine, because it gives pleasure.”
Having sipped through some heritage Zins of my own, pleasure is the only word that will do, one spicy sip after the next. Here’s toasting to 20 more years of Zinspiration!
