Glen Ellen Star

Glen Ellen Star
13648 Arnold Dr.
Glen Ellen
(707) 343-1384
Wine Country Rustic
Dinner nightly; lunch Fri.-Sun.
Entrées (dinner): $12-$23
Nice wine list
 
When we first arrived at Glen Ellen Star, they were just finishing up a whole roasted pig (“PBR summer suckling pig roast”). Cooked overnight in a wood fired oven, it serves eight and comes with a case of, yes, Pabst Blue Ribbon. If this sounds like something you’d like, the restaurant requires 72 hours’ notice for your order.

The place has only been open since May, but when we visited in June its small dining room, patio and bar seating (along the open kitchen) were all packed. The small hamlet of Glen Ellen is definitely enthusiastic about Chef Ari Weiswasser and his wife, Erinn Benziger-Weiswasser’s, newest venture. The feeling is warm, vivacious and inviting—just as they’d planned—with relaxed and friendly service.

The carefully chosen wine list offers wines on tap, by the glass or by the bottle. We chose the 2010 Capture Fleuron Chardonnay (light butter, tropical nose, clean finish) and 2009 Sean Minor Central Coast Pinot Noir (cherry cola nose, silky, bright acidity and meaty on the palate) to accompany the meal.

The sweet corn soup is creamy and smooth, made with a stock crafted from Parmesan rinds, then blended with mascarpone and topped with ricotta gnudi that’s dense and almost doughy, as well as shaved scallions. The wood fired artichoke hearts are sliced thin and topped with Parmesan alongside fresh arugula. Both dishes were delightful and the perfect size.

The golden roasted beets were sliced into wedges and had a sweet blood orange oil glaze, topped with crunchy harissa that added nice texture. The dish had a slight heat to it but nothing to warrant the heat-fearing to shy away from. It was very fun and flavorful with a nice hot/sweet balance.

For our entrées, we first tried the special of pork short ribs, marinated with Mexican chilis, pineapple juice and roasted overnight, served with jalapeño marmalade and shaved radishes, atop an avocado puree and shredded lettuce. The tender meat literally fell off the bone and the mild sauce was an ideal complement. The striped bass was served with its crispy skin on top, which gave way easily to the moist interior. It came with sweet charred spring onions and a smoky romesco sauce, just the right balance of flavors and texture.

For dessert, there are several flavors of house made ice cream. We chose malted milk chocolate (plenty of malt in very light milk chocolate) and salted peanut butter (creamy with just the right amount of salt). Made with organic milk, they’re served in their own cartons, very cold with hot spoons, and come with lids in case you want to take some home and extend your experience—so we did just that.

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