L’Appart Resto
636 San Anselmo Ave.
San Anselmo
(415) 256-9884
French Cuisine
Dinner Wed.-Mon.
Lunch and Brunch Fri.-Sun.
Entrées (dinner): $13-$28
Nice wine list
French natives Bruno Denis and Olivier Souvestre first opened L’Appart Resto in May 2010, following the success of their Sausalito restaurant, Le Garage Bistro. It has since become a bustling gathering spot, largely visited by neighborhood locals who come to enjoy the cozy dining room or, in warmer months, its heated patio that bumps right up against the sidewalk along San Anselmo Avenue (it’s even dog-friendly). The menu features traditional French bistro fare and is accompanied by a wine list that offers all sorts of French as well as plenty of domestic choices (many from Napa and Sonoma).
We started with a glass of Cremant de Bourgogne rosé sparkling wine (crisp with beautiful color) and some Chimay Triple White (Belgian) beer. Boy am I glad Belgian beer is gaining popularity—it’s delicious.
As soon as I saw Black Mission figs wrapped in bacon on the menu, I couldn’t resist. The three sweet figs were served hot, wrapped in a paper-thin slice of bacon atop mustard greens with earthy crumbled Fourme d’Ambert (blue cheese) and raw nuts for texture. Next up were P.E.I (Prince Edward Island) mussels served hot, plump and fresh in a flavorful coconut milk broth with fresh (skinless) tomatoes, parsley and onions. There were plenty for two to share or even for someone to enjoy as a light entrée.
A glass of Chateau St. Esteve de Neri from Luberon (Grenache/Syrah blend) and KC Jones (love that name) Streamliner Sonoma (white blend) accompanied our entrées. First was a rich and comforting fresh Maine lobster risotto that had plenty of chunks of lobster along with asparagus and tiny mushrooms, topped with shaved and melted cheese. Next was a fantastic duck confit (leg and thigh) that was traditionally prepared (a centuries-old method that includes cooking it in its own fat) and so tender it fell off the bone. Served with sweet (hot) fruit, delicious grains and huckleberry sauce, it went especially well with the red blend and I loved the pop of the fruit as an accent to the duck.
As if we could fit anymore in, we of course ordered tarte tatin (warm apple tart), which came in a layered presentation with thin-sliced apples drizzled with caramel atop a crisp crust with a dollop of crème fraîche on the side. It went wonderfully well with a glass of Presidential white port, which gave everything a clean edge and especially enhanced the caramel in the dish.
L’Appart Resto has an open, friendly atmosphere with lots of fresh air, beautifully prepared and presented dishes and service to match. Bon appetit!
