The Thomas
813 Main St.
Napa
(707) 226-7821
Modern American
Dinner nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun.
Entrées: $16-$45
Full bar; great wine list
It took a long time and a crime solved before someone could breathe new life into The Thomas and Fagiani’s Bar in downtown Napa. But the early 1900s building is now back to its original name (The Thomas was a boarding house and restaurant when it opened), including that of its first floor bar—1960s-era neon sign and all. The interior is redesigned but with a nod to its roots via original and salvaged materials, while a second-floor dining room with an open kitchen and a more casual, partially covered rooftop bar and dining area round out the scene.
Michelin-starred Executive Chef Brad Farmerie and Chef de Cuisine Jason Kupper put together a regularly changing menu featuring a raw bar and seasonal appetizers, mains and sides. Catering to locals and tourists alike, the kitchen stays open until 10 p.m. nightly, and a limited bar menu is available until midnight on weekends and until 1 a.m. on Mondays for "industry night."
We started with a couple perfectly prepared specialty cocktails, then moved on to a selection of raw oysters paired with 2011 Blue Plate Clarksburg Sauvignon Blanc (crisp, citrus flavors and aromas)—a stellar start.
Little did we know, the best was yet to come: If you’re a roasted bone marrow fan, The Thomas is an absolute must. This rich, voluptuous offering is generous in size and over-the-top in flavor, with a parmesan-caper crust, a seasonal salad and brioche that’s made daily just for this purpose.
A flavorful carrot ginger soup topped with tiny chopped chives and toasted chili marshmallow was the ideal transition in to our entrées.
Wood grilled salmon (with roe on top) was served with fingerling potatoes, a tart avocado, fennel and green apple slaw and preserved Meyer lemon yogurt. It was expertly paired with 2010 La Follette North Coast Pinot Noir—the balance between the two was amazing.
The large, wood fired Black Angus strip was cooked medium rare and came with a rich béarnaise sauce (with a bit of bone barrow—yum!), and beautiful summer squash and bright red cherry tomatoes. A side of crispy Brussels sprouts topped with a sweet/hot chili caramel sauce was delicious.
For dessert we went for sticky toffee pudding, which was bread pudding topped with a scoop of honey-ginger ice cream and a sliced white fig. The toffee sauce was poured on top at the table (a nice touch). That, combined with the excellent service and engaging atmosphere throughout the meal, was enough to win us over as fans of this venture that’s truly ushering in a new era of enjoyment.
