“It’s about sensory, sensual pleasure and what food goes well with it.” —Daniel Baron
This isn’t the first time Silver Oak Cellars has been voted Best Cabernet Sauvignon in our annual readers poll—and for good reason. The wine is consistently elegant and is revered internationally as one of the top Cabernet Sauvignons in the world.
Daniel Baron, director of winemaking for both Silver Oak and its sister winery, Twomey Cellars, joined Silver Oak as winemaker in 1994, under the tutelage of its original co-owner (with Ray Duncan), the late Justin Meyer.
“There was no one like Justin; he was quite a character,” says Baron, pointing out Meyer’s founding of the G.O.N.A.D.S. (the Gastronomical Order for Nonsensical and Dissipatory Society), a group of local vintners who’d meet once a month to eat, drink and be merry. “He’d tease them when he hosted by making grilled tripe,” remembers Baron.
“Justin used to say we’d continue to try to make our best bottle with each vintage,” he says. “We’re always looking for ways to improve. So my efforts today are definitely made in his spirit.”
The winery has two locations; it’s first along the Oakville Crossroad in Napa Valley (25,000 cases annually), and its second in Alexander Valley (70,000 cases). The results are distinctly different. The current release is 2008 (Silver Oak ages its wines 4.5 to 5 years before releasing them to ensure they’re elegant and drinkable upon release; they can also be cellared for 25+ years). The Alexander Valley has a garnet color and ripe berry nose with hints of sandalwood, while on the palate it’s smooth with mild tannins. The Napa Valley is darker with hints of cassis, violets and coffee on the nose. On the palate, it’s more forceful with medium tannins amid dark, earthy fruit. Baron notes there are people who like one or the other—sometimes both—but that for him and the Duncan family, it’s like asking, “Which of your children do you like best?”
“It’s not a sporting event; not about choosing the best. It’s about sensory, sensual pleasure and what food goes well with it,” he says.
Dominic Orsini, the winery’s chef, offers a range of pairings using both Silver Oak and Twomey (Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Merlot) wines. He sources from the winery’s gardens, cures his own meat and makes his own vinegar. “Guests can come and see what goes well together. It’s lots of fun for all of us,” says Baron.
The next releases will be August 3 (2009 Alexander Valley) and February 1 (2009 Napa Valley). Meantime, the winery recently bought Sausal Winery in Alexander Valley and is in the process of designing a LEED-certified facility there. It’s also replanting the majority of Sausal’s vineyards to Cabernet Sauvignon—but will keep all the Zinfandel planted there in the 1870s and 1890s.
“Thank you for voting for us,” says Baron. “Rest assured, we’ll continue working hard to make the best wine possible. And…don’t wait! Open those wines! Drink up and enjoy—there’ll be more! And come visit; there are two of both wineries [Silver Oak and Twomey], so there’s one in your neighborhood.”
