“Some people have called the original Kenwood vineyard one of the best Merlot vineyards in the world.” —Christopher Silva
“Our founder, Joe Martin, always thought Merlot was an underrated, underappreciated varietal—that it shouldn’t just be a blending grape for Cabernet Sauvignon,” says Christopher Silva, president/CEO at St. Francis Winery & Vineyards, this year’s winner for Best Merlot. “A lot of people think Merlot should be a light wine, but it’s actually a very big, structured grape. [Joe] never thought Merlot should be ‘Cabernet light.’”
So, as far back as the 1970s, St. Francis and Merlot had a special bond. “It’s really what put us on the map,” confirms Dave Buerger, DTC marketing and social media manager. “Our early growth was really attributed to Merlot; in the 1980s and early ’90s, it was our flagship varietal. In 1996, our winemaker [at the time, Tom Mackey] was nicknamed ‘Master of Merlot’ by Wine Spectator magazine.”
“And in 1999, Joe Martin was called ‘The Father of Merlot Madness!” adds Silva.
All of which begs the question: What makes St. Francis Merlot special? “Some people have called the original Kenwood vineyard one of the best Merlot vineyards in the world because of where it’s located geographically,” Silva explains. “Merlot is a very temperamental grape. It needs cool, damp mornings and warm afternoons. Because it’s in Sonoma Valley, the only thing separating our Merlot vineyard from the Pacific Ocean is the Sonoma Coast appellation. So it gets those cool, coastal mornings—usually with a blanket of fog—that yields to warm, dry afternoons. Those are clinically ideal growing conditions for Merlot.”
The best Merlots, I’m told, have essences of plums, cherries, pepper and spice. “Our Merlot is produced in a meatier, bigger flavor profile,” adds Director of Consumer Sales and Marketing Aura Bland. “It holds up to Cabernets with a full body and bold structure.”
As we taste, I expect to be overpowered, but instead, the 2009 Behler Merlot (using fruit from the original Kenwood vineyard and only available at the winery or through the wine club) displays all those characteristics, but it’s also smooth and sultry.
“We don’t want it to be rugged, edgy or over-the-top. We want it to be rich, elegant and balanced,” says Bland. “Eighteen months in French oak gives more subdued essences of vanilla and lets the fruit shine through.”
St. Francis also produces a Sonoma County Merlot as part of the winery’s “classic tier” wines, which are distributed to retail and restaurants nationally. Sourced from estate vineyards located throughout Sonoma County, the 2008 is well-balanced, with a peppery nose, even tannins and a lovely chocolate/cocoa finish.
You can taste them both—as well as many other delectable vintages—at the tasting room in Sonoma Valley. While there, try one of the several food-and-wine pairing options, including a simple (but delicious!) cheese or charcuterie plate on the outside terrace overlooking the estate vineyards; a more formal, six-course guided experience in its newly renovated dining room; and its newest program, Private Estate Dinners, which reserves the entire winery for an evening dinner (prepared by Executive Chef David Bush), for eight to 16 people. “It’s perfect for company functions, rehearsal dinners, special events and celebrations,” says Bland, adding that, “People who love our wines are our best ambassadors for the brand.
“That’s what we strive for. We want everyone who comes into the tasting room—or who tastes our wines—to tell their friends and family about us.”
