Now that summer is approaching and tourists are flocking to our wineries, I only hope we have enough wine to pour. I’ve already criticized wineries in Mendocino for not entering judging competitions when they’re desperately looking for public awareness and, as I look deeper into the results, especially the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, the largest in the country, I see that Sonoma County isn’t exactly setting any records for entries, either. It appears only the new kids on the block are entering, looking for publicity and maybe a little ego stroking. My hat does go off to several of our older wineries that are entering and especially the Wilson group of wineries that won more medals than any other winery (and all are double gold, gold and silver). Congratulations to Ken and Diane as well as Antoine Favero, their winemaker along with Diane.
Some of the notable wineries that entered include Carol Shelton and Robert Rue (always gold medal Zinfandels), Coppola, Clos du Bois, Pedroncelli, Rodney Strong, Selby, St. Francis, Benziger, Korbel, Gallo Sonoma labels, Dry Creek Vineyards and Dutcher Crossing, to name a few. These wineries continue to win and show what Sonoma County is all about. However, there are far more wineries in the county that are also excellent and could enhance our image even more. One of the things that’s happening is that, without many of our other good wineries entering, other areas such as Lodi, Paso Robles, Virginia and New York are showing well. With some of our best wines not entered, the likes of New York and Livermore Valley wineries have won sweepstakes two years in a row. It would appear that the Sonoma County wine industry leaves the door wide open when the great quality wineries don’t give it their best shot to take top awards. It’s no wonder other wine regions are gaining market share—albeit small, but significant. We’ve never considered New York, Virginia and the Midwest as competition in the wine market, but as their quality drastically improves and they make drier, more flavorful wines, buyers are trying them and liking them, especially in their regions. I particularly like Finger Lakes Rieslings and Missouri Seyval Blancs and Nortons. By the way, you could substitute Napa in this discussion. The king (in its mind) never wants to take a chance to fall off the mountain. It’s hard to argue with that. Only in Cabernet is that true, however.
OK, so where are the likes of Seghesio, Dutton, Armida, Lancaster, Chalk Hill, Ridge, Simi, J, Acorn, Ferrari-Carano, Kendall-Jackson, Kunde, Paradise Ridge, Sausal, Silver Oak and Stryker Sonoma—just to name a few of the top of my head? Now, back to my opening statement: Are these mentioned and other non-entries telling us that all of their wine is sold and they don’t need any further publicity? If so, we’ve certainly done an amazing turnaround from just a year ago, when all wineries were crying about low sales and prices. My hat is off to all of you and we expect that with these great sales numbers that the growers will get a healthy price increase for the great fruit that made your sales so good.
Another topic that comes up is why many of the popular varieties are broken up into several categories, such as price. Two reasons are that without it we would have 400 Cabernets all in one class and, second, as judges, we take price into account. What might be a silver in the $50 class would probably be a gold or double gold in the $20 class. I’ve frequently said that price is not based on quality, but availability, and I stand by that. Looking at the results for the $60+ class, they’re all low production wines—or so we’re told. If they’re expensive and hard to get, they start playing the ego games with those who purchase it. (I have it and you don’t, ha ha.)
With the new North Coast Wine Challenge competition just days away, it’ll be interesting to see who enters what. Will the really good wines (at least in their eyes) enter and be up for the challenge? Or will they sit back on their perceived laurels and maybe even their perceived shortage if they’ve mastered that ability? I guess I’m saying that now Sonoma, Napa, Mendocino and even Lake counties can put their best foot forward and really see who’s king of the mountain. The show won’t be cluttered with a lot of outsiders who also think they’re king of the mountain. Lodi, Amador and Paso Robles are challengers to that title also, but they won’t be here. Even the great reds of Washington state and the Pinot Noirs from Oregon won’t cloud the scenery. Will Napa shine in Cabernets? Sonoma in Zinfandels and Sauvignon Blancs? Anderson Valley with Gewürztraminers and Rieslings and Lake with Sauvignon Blancs? Mendocino, where will you hang your hat?
In the planning stages, and I hope near completion, I hear a public benefit tasting might be in the offing. It would be wonderful exposure for all of the winners just as with the Sonoma County Harvest Fair Awards presentation night. Although I hear that wonderful night might be in jeopardy as the fair tries to reinvent itself.
Meanwhile, on several wine blogs and in Wine Spectator, several writers have been taking Sonoma County to task for too many appellations and too much confusion among the names—especially when virtually nobody outside of a very small portion of wine drinkers know where Sonoma County is even located. Tim Fish, of Santa Rosa fame, writes in Wine Spectator: “Can Sonoma Finally Get Its Act Together?” and Tom Wark writing on his blog says: “Woe Is Sonoma Valley-For It Is Within the County.”
All of this confusion is only a result of the egos that pursued them. Despite what the wine snobs like to believe, the average consumer really doesn’t understand appellations and probably couldn’t care less. Even in Napa, where Napa Valley is the world’s greatest appellation, there are clowns who keep adding subappellations—why? Certainly not to help sales but to stroke egos, but I guess that’s the story of the wine industry. According to local winemakers, no one ever makes any money with wine, so I guess the only reason is the pad the ol’ ego. Off to your bottle a day!
