Before we jump into the analysis of the first annual Press Democrat North Coast Wine Challenge, I need to just throw out a couple of thoughts that have recently crossed my mind. The Healdsburg Fair that was recently completed is the biggest community event of the year, kicking off with a parade. With a great variety of floats, I was very surprised and deeply disappointed that there was not one winery float. A lack of community support, yes, especially after listening to local radio ads by the winery association and Tourism Bureau urging people to visit: Hey community, come on out and support us, but we won’t support you in return! Also at the fair was something that was extremely tacky and/or riddled with poor judgment. I’m not sure which, but first a commercial entity selling food to support the local Catholic school (even donated commercialism isn’t allowed) and, on a very large highway-type sign board, they were advertising the relocating and reopening of a local bar. This, at a kids’ fair and a local Parochial School sponsor: Not cool!
While I’m on crazy things in small towns, how about the Humane Society in Healdsburg? An article in our fine local newspaper stated that the animal people have a $635,000-per-year budget. Fine, but it’s also stated they treated about 650 animals—almost $1,000 per animal? What would starving children and the homeless do with $1,000 each? Just thought I’d ask. By the way, Healdsburg is also the town that can’t figure out which way to make a one-way street go.
So much for that. You’ve obviously heard me try to help the wonderful people of Mendocino County buy suggesting that if their wine is as good as they think, they need to do some marketing and let people know. One of the best ways is to enter a few judgings, because awards help sell wine. Hence we gave them the chance with the first annual PDNCC. Mendocino results are as follows: Out of 121 gold medals, Mendocino appellations won 12, but if we remove Anderson Valley wines (I’ve always said they’re great), which were awarded eight golds (with four being from Navarro Vineyards), that leaves four for the rest of the entire county. Now the big question you’ll never have answered: Did they not enter any good wines because they don’t have any, or did they not enter because they wouldn’t know what to do with all the publicity gold medals could bring?
I think this is evidence they can’t get together and do any promotion and will never reach the status of their southern and eastern neighbors. Two Sonoma County wineries did win golds with Mendocino County grapes, and a few golds went to the Carneros (two-county area) region, with winery locations in Sonoma. Fortunately for Mendocino, the Press Democrat has signed on for a three-year sponsorship, so they’ll get another chance to put their money where their mouth is!
Some consolation might be that Napa won only nine golds, and it swept the Cabernet show as well as had two beautiful Sauvignon Blancs. Proves my point: Napa makes great Cabs, some good Sauvignon Blancs and not much in the middle. As they say, do what you do best.
So who dominates the North Coast? I’m glad you asked. Dry Creek Valley garnered 17 medals, while its immediate neighbor Russian River Valley really kicked butt with 26 golds. Should it be a surprise that they both have very strong grower/winery groups that work together? (Hint, hint, Mendocino—are you listening?)
The Best of the Best, which you probably already know, was a Beaulieu Vineyards Tapestry Reserve at $60, a Bordeaux blend—smooth as silk and wonderful use of older wood. It was obviously Best of Napa also. The Best of Sonoma (and also runner-up to the Best of the Show) was a Sivas-Sonoma Sauvignon Blanc from Don Sebastiani and Sons. A Shed Horn Cellars red blend was the Best of Lake County.
I think the judges did an outstanding job, they were all very professional and their expertise showed through with the winners. There are probably a few new names and kids on the block who are making great wines, so if those wineries wish to sit on their laurels, maybe the discerning consumer will branch out and discover them through this competition. There was a public tasting in July at the Shone Farm (SRJC Farm) and I hope many of you attended. (This is the problem with long lead times—it’s usually over before I can comment—but maybe that’s good.)
The organizers feel this first endeavor was quite successful, so plans are already being made for next year. My personal feeling is that I’ve been vindicated for my thoughts about Sonoma County, across the board, producing the best wine in the world. It’s been in my speech for 30+ years and look, now we’ve proven it on a level playing field. Seventy-eight wines won gold medals, which was 65 percent of the golds awarded.
My hat is tipped to all of the winners and their winemakers for making the show very successful, and I hope it will help them with the added publicity. And those wineries fearful of entering, they’ll see that I don’t tell you who entered or not. Let them live with their own little secret.
Also many thanks to Daryl Groom, our head judge, and Debra Del Fiorentino and Jil Child from Vineyard and Winery Management magazine who produced the competition. It’s a lot of work, but getting sound, honest results makes it worthwhile.
By the way, in case you were looking for more awards like silver and bronze, they weren’t awarded, but the golds were given points (on the 100 point scale) and six wines received 98 points: Beaulieu Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Kokomo Grenache Rose, Breathless Sparkling wine, Sivas-Sonoma Sauvignon Blanc, Navarro LH Gewurztraminer, Mossback Pinot Noir, and last but certainly not least, Trombetta Pinot Noir.
That’s about it for now, so make your homework assignment the tasting of all the wonderful gold medal winners.
