Art Works Downtown is a 40,000-square-foot building that was formerly San Rafael’s opera house. Today, it’s a nonprofit organization that fosters creativity via artists’ studios, residences, galleries, private event spaces (that can be configured and decorated in countless ways) and—what we’re here to discover—outstanding dining.
Opened by co-owners Jay Yinger (executive chef; previously of Chez Panisse and founder of Andalou) and Lisa Long (artist), Odalisque is a fitting name, inspired by La Grande Odalisque, a painting by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres (1814). It has exposed brick walls, high ceilings, a beautiful wooden bar and rotating artwork on display (currently large-format prints by photographer Joe Burrull). Come April, an outdoor area that resembles a European alleyway will be available for private parties.
A pair of delicious Miyagi oysters (on special) with mignonette sauce started things off great—I could have eaten a lot more. There’s also house made bread sticks and flavorful hummus served with meals.
The golden-fried and lightly beer-battered artichoke hearts with lemon (also battered and fried) came with plenty of harissa aioli (nice kick). We enjoyed them with a glass of 2009 Zmor Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley) and a bottle of Bison Brewery’s Organic Honey Basil Ale. Next up was the mushroom pizzetta, which had a thin, nicely textured crust topped with thin-sliced mushrooms, smoked gouda, red onion jam, chives and truffle oil. It was very savory, earthy, fresh and brightly flavored.
Talbott Vineyards’ 2012 Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay (Salinas) and Giovanni Rosso’s 2011 Nebbiolo (Langhe, Piemonte, Italy), paired by our friendly and knowledgeable server, David, accompanied our main courses tremendously (especially the Nebbiolo). First were pan-seared diver scallops (tender and golden) with forbidden rice that added great texture, as well as baby beets, watercress and arugula salad with a drizzle of rich, buttery lemon sauce.
The oven-roasted rack of lamb was what really knocked us off our feet. Four big, thick chops were prepared medium rare and had a beautiful, thin layer of crispy fat on the edges. The meat was like butter and the fingerling potatoes, baby carrots, broccoli and lamb jus rounded everything out wonderfully. It was some of the best lamb I’ve ever had.
For dessert, we chose red wine tapioca. Chef de Cuisine Matthew Howard (a Terra Linda native who’s traveled far as a chef and is now happy to be home) soaks the tapioca in red wine and Mediterranean spices, then serves it on a layer of custard and tops it with thick whipped cream—a light and delicious way to end the meal.
