Hamel Family Wines

Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (last reservation 3 p.m.)

Tasting fees:  $40-$100

Wines currently offered: Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, rosé, Isthmus (a Bordeaux-inspired red blend), Cabernet Sauvignon

Appointment necessary: Yes

Pets: No

Picnics: Guests can purchase a prepared picnic at the winery or bring their own food.

My first exposure to Sonoma County’s Hamel Family Wines was no picnic. It was summer camp for grownups.

At Camp Hamel, which will repeat annually for wine club members (and others), the emphasis was on fun above all else, which, I learn, is what the Hamels are all about. Managing director George Hamel III, who I saw again when I returned once the winery officially opened in June, says, “We wanted to create a hospitality experience that mimics the care and love we put into our farming and winemaking practices.”

While I wasn’t seduced by the sweet scent of burnt marshmallows and melted chocolate huddled around a s’more pit this time, I found the come-one-come-all camaraderie of summer camp still lingered. “There are two things we’re very serious about: growing grapes and tasting wine. But we never want to not have fun doing those things.”

George Hamel, Jr., and wife, Pam, started making wine in 2006 as a way to bring the family together. But as so often happens, the wine bug bit and, in 2010, the 125-acre Sonoma property was purchased. Sons George III and John II left their respective careers in finance and public relations to join the winery, the latter as winemaker. For George III, the mission is simple: “To become Sonoma’s premier boutique winery, producing the highest-quality, terroir-inspired wines the vineyards can produce.”

A ranch house welcome

My tasting begins practically before I’m out of my car, as a greeter welcomes me to the winery. Not a Boy Scout in sight this time, but the hospitality is equally friendly. I’m offered a glass of Nordaq Fresh water, which is purified onsite and prepares the palate for tasting by removing specific minerals and leaving others behind. The “ranch” as George refers to the winery and estate house, was designed by San Francisco firm Gould Evans in a way that’s both stunning and subliminal. It’s tucked against a slope of oak woodland and manzanita chaparral. The glass and open design offer a setting that’s ripe with country scenes and breezes. “We can have indoor-outdoor experiences with the doors opened. Visitors get a beautiful, framed view of the valley,” says George. “That’s what this whole thing has been designed around. We don’t need a bunch of art up on the walls because this is art.”

Intent on being stewards of the land, the Hamels made a point of reusing all the materials excavated while creating the expansive caves throughout the property. “We charged the firm to create a space that uses 25 percent less energy than a winery of comparable size,” says George. The vineyards (30 plantable acres onsite, with another six just seven miles away) are farmed sustainably using organic and biodynamic methods. There’s even a protected wetland (manmade) along with pigmy goats, chickens, bees and Scottish highland cows.

Tasting here, there and everywhere

There are three options when it comes time to taste. While appointments are required, the winery has many lounge-worthy spaces, which encourage long and lingering stays. “We invite guests to come for a proper tasting and then stay,” says George. I liken the views to movie theater surround sound—every which way you turn, unobstructed views of the valley abound.

The most basic tasting, the estate experience, is anything but basic, given the panoramic views. It starts with a 2013 Sauvignon Blanc, which is vibrant and approachable with bright citrus notes. Next is the 2013 rosé, classic in style, with a subtle spice finish. The 2012 Estate Zinfandel is soft, smooth and balanced, with bright fruit flavors without being too jammy.

The premier and reserve experiences each include a tasting and tour. The latter also features small bites, cheese and charcuterie and, oftentimes, barrel samples. My favorite wine of the day, usually offered as part of the reserve tasting (being a member of the media sometimes has its perks), was the 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, which screams of right-bank Bordeaux, heavy on the nose with cherry, currant and subtle earthy notes. Tastings can occur in many different spots throughout the property including a special reserve room in the cave or the library, which offers one of the most simplistic yet striking views around.

Silver lining touches

What sets this winery apart, beyond the wines and views, are the small touches. Much like my Camp Hamel experience, which was laden with silver lining touches (such as the make-your-own trail mix bar and trail maps), the wine tastings serve their own spin of special. Whether it’s the warm welcome at your car, the pashminas on-hand at the entrance of the cave or even the glass bottle of estate purified water you’re left with as you hit the happy trail back home, you’re likely to feel just a little bit better when you leave.