Fleur Sauvage: Wine and Chocolate

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worklifeinfocus_couple

On a quiet corner in downtown Windsor is a small chocolate shop. The inside is warm and cozy, with white paneled walls, an assortment of tables, and benches lined with pillows. There’s a chalkboard menu to the right of the counter, with coffee and hot chocolate options. The focal point, however, is the glass case, displaying an array of colorful bonbons, painted in glimmering shades of orange, lavender, green and blue. “The bonbons are by far the most popular item,” says Chef Robert Nieto, who goes by Chef Buttercup. “People are very intrigued by the colors, the shapes and the flavors. When they see them in the showcase, they’re just drawn to them.”

Before his chocolate business, Chef Buttercup worked at Kendall-Jackson Wines for 13 years. “Our executive chef liked to give everyone new names,” he says. “I was the pastry chef, so they wanted to give me a sweet name.” While playing a game of volleyball with his coworkers, they nicknamed him “Butterfingers” because the ball kept slipping through his fingers. This later transitioned into “Buttercup,” and it stuck.

At Kendall-Jackson, Chef Buttercup experimented with chocolate and wine pairings and developed his craft. After a stint of competing in Paris creating chocolate sculptures, he decided to pursue his dream of starting his own chocolate company. In 2018, he launched Fleur Sauvage Chocolates with the help of his wife, Tara.

“I was trying to come up with a name to embody his style,” Tara says. “A buttercup is also a wildflower, and ‘fleur sauvage’ means wildflower in French. It has a sophisticated yet wild and free sound to it.”

They began selling their chocolates at farmers markets around Sonoma County, where they made connections with several wineries. When their brand became more established, wineries and distilleries reached out to them. In 2021, Fleur Sauvage collaborated with 14 different breweries, distilleries and wineries. “Usually we’ll set up a tasting with them,” Tara says. “We meet with them, we spread out the chocolates, they pour wine and we make the pairing.” She adds, “It’s especially fun when we can find a pairing where the wine and the bonbon complement each other so well that we collectively nod our heads and say ‘That’s it! That’s so good.’”

Baldassari Wines was one of their first clients and continues to partner with them today. “[These pairings] have resonated with people,” Winemaker Matt Michael says. “This has been by far the most successful thing we’ve done.”

One taste of their most interesting pairing makes this clear: Baldassari’s 2017 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and a white chocolate-orange and honey bonbon, made with an infusion of local honey and orange essence. Tara explains that people often think that chocolate and white wine don’t go together, but this pairing proves otherwise. The Chardonnay is bright and aromatic, with notes of white peach and nectarine and a hint of lemon oil. The bonbon elevates the citrus notes and brings a touch of sweetness.

“It’s also an interesting experience to try something and understand why it doesn’t work,” Tara says. She demonstrates this while finding a pairing for two reds that Baldassari just released. The 2019 Asti Ranch Malbec Alexander Valley, is fruit-forward, with aromas of black cherry, blackberry and plum sauce and a hint of spice. Pairing a dark chocolate cherry-filled bonbon with this wine is overly fruity on the palate.

In contrast, the 2018 Bennett Valley Syrah has a robust spice flavor, with rich notes of cracked pepper, tobacco leaf and tea leaf, balanced by a hint of dark fruit. Pairing the cherry bonbon with this wine brings out the subtle notes of boysenberry and blueberry and strikes a perfect balance of sweetness and spice.

“It’s fun to get together with a winemaker because they are so proud of their product and their craft, and we’re so proud of what we make,” says Tara. When we can make a beautiful pairing, she says, it’s very rewarding for all of us.

Besides the pairings, Chef Buttercup and Tara are excited to operate their shop in downtown Windsor, which opened its doors in December last year. “It was meant to be a ‘soft opening,’ but we were selling out every day. We couldn’t keep up,” Tara laughs. “We had a line down the block.”

They look forward to welcoming guests to come in, relax and socialize. “I’m excited about people hanging out,” Tara says. She lights up as she describes watching two elderly women sit and chat over coffee and dessert, and mothers and children playing cards at a corner table. “I really want this to be a community space,” she says with a smile.

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