Located in Carneros, on the southern tip of the Napa Valley, Bouchaine Vineyards is the oldest, continuously-operating winery in the region. Planted in the 1880s by Quincy Boonfly, the winery was bordered by the Pacific Railway and a wharf where ferries transported goods to and from San Francisco. It was a bustling and innovative place.
The proximity to the bay served as an easy escape for John Garretto, who took ownership of the property shortly before Prohibition. Legend has it that the police could never catch him making wine or distilling because if anyone came looking for him, he would come to the edge of his property, get on a boat and hide in the bay.
Garretto eventually sold the property to Beringer Winery, where it was used it as a winemaking facility for 20 years. Then, in 1981, Garrett and Tatiana Copeland came and viewed the property, which had become neglected and overgrown with time. They climbed a hillside and looked out across the vineyards, stretches of wetlands and the bay, with views from San Francisco to Mount Diablo, and they fell in love.
The Copelands specialize in growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and the cooler climate of the Carneros region makes it ideal. With 87 acres of vineyards, Bouchaine also grows Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Syrah.
At Bouchaine, guests can choose between two different tasting venues. The estate’s garden is laid back and peaceful. Guests can choose five different wines, find a picnic table and sip at their leisure. On this sunny day, parents chatter and share snacks, while children play in the grass or try out the lawn games like jumbo Connect Four and Jenga.
On this day, Chris Kajani, winemaker and general manager, leads me to the winery’s terrace for a more elevated and private tasting experience. The architecture is clean and modern. The hospitality center, made of repurposed redwood from old wine tanks, curves around the terrace in a crescent shape, blocking the wind and adding to the elegant ambiance.
We start with the 2021 Rosé Vin Gris of Pinot Noir. “The whole-cluster press brings a beautiful freshness with notes of guava, wild strawberry and a nice mineral component that runs through it,” says Kajani. This wine is completely dry, with no residual sugar. “It’s refreshing, food-friendly, and all the things that a great Rosé should be.”
As we sip, Kajani explains her philosophy on wine-and-food pairing. Most people will pair wine and food that have what she calls a “same-same” component—such as pairing a steak with a rich and meaty Syrah. But Kajani believes that opposites can complement each other quite well. She calls this a “ying-yang” pairing. For instance, pairing something from the grill with a fresh and lively Rosé.
Next we try the 2020 Gewurztraminer. The grapes were planted in 2017, and 2020 was the winery’s first vintage. It’s made in a dry style, which brings out the cool characteristics of the varietal. The wine is honeyed, with notes of lychee (a Southeast Asian fruit) and a hint of rose petal. It pairs well with spicy foods like curry, she adds, because the light and sweet components of the wine will cut nicely across spice.
Following this, Kajani brings out the 2019 Bouchaine Crescendo Chardonnay. The bottle’s label features a blue butterfly and a violin—a stark contrast from Bouchaine’s classic label. This is the winery’s special bottling promoting Festival Napa Valley. “Cresendo is the name of the magazine that Festival Napa Valley puts out every year. And our owners, being founding sponsors of [the festival], wanted to do something to highlight that partnership,” she says. Proceeds from the wine go to support the performing young artists. The Chardonnay is light and fruity, with notes of Meyer lemon and nectarine. The wine is 15% new oak, with a hint of barrel spice.
Lastly, we try a red—the 2019 Bouchaine Crescendo Pinot Noir. When it comes to Pinot Noir, Chris explains that there are red and blue fruit clones. Red fruit-driven clones express notes of sour cherry, cranberry and raspberry, while blue fruit clones display characteristics of plum and pomegranate. The 2019 Crescendo Pinot Noir is a combination of 10 different red and blue fruit clones from the estate, which creates a full-bodied and layered wine. These rich fruit notes blend together with aromas of sage, thyme and a hint of chanterelle mushrooms. This wine is soft and lush on the palate with a lengthy finish.
Nestled at the gateway of a once-bustling train station and port, the winery’s location holds a rich history of innovation and exploration, which continues to influence it today. In 2020, Bouchaine Vineyards partnered with Cisco, a technology company based in San Jose. With sensors installed throughout its vineyards, Bouchaine is able to measure data such as water levels in the soil to make informed decisions that may reduce its carbon footprint. Guests can learn more about this exciting partnership by joining Bouchaine’s Taste of Technology experience.
There is something for everyone at Bouchaine, with a variety of experiences and events, from wine and cheese pairing to concerts. Whether you’re on a Napa wine tasting expedition or looking for a family-friendly spot to relax and enjoy a drink, make a reservation at Bouchaine Vineyards. When you look out across the expansive views of the bay area from the winery’s terrace, it’s easy to see why the Copelands fell in love with the property more than 40 years ago.
Did You Know?
Winemaker Chris Kajani came to Bouchaine from a background in biotech. It all started when she was invited to a friend’s dinner party and met a winemaker. He encouraged her to go back to college for a master’s degree in winemaking. A few years later, she graduated from the University of California, Davis with a master’s degree in viticulture and enology and had her first winemaking position before graduation. What she loves most about winemaking is seeing her work to completion, as opposed to her former career, where she worked on things in the lab and then sent them off. There’s this cycle in winemaking every year that completes, she explains. “I like seeing the whole process,” she adds. “You do the same thing every year, but you do it completely differently, depending on what Mother Nature throws at you.”
Bouchaine Vineyards
1075 Buchli Station Rd.
Napa, Calif. 94559
Hours: Open Daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Tasting Fee: $50–$75 per person
Wines: 2021 Rosé Vin Gris of Pinot Noir, 2020 Gewurztraminer, 2019 Bouchaine Crescendo Chardonnay, 2019 Bouchaine Crescendo Pinot Noir
Reservations: Required
Picnics: Yes
Pets: Yes. Friendly dogs welcome, on a leash.
