Calistoga

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Napa’s northernmost town is the perfect weekend getaway.
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The sun is shining, it’s hot, and the streets are buzzing with the eager-to-relax crowd of locals and visitors popping into tasting rooms and spas in the not-so-hidden gem of Calisotga. The subtle smell of sulfur fills the air and steam seems to hover above a pool in the distance—you’re in the right place.

Before it was incorporated into a town in 1876, Calistoga was home to the Wappo tribe dating as far back as 500 years ago. American settlers arrived in the 1840s, captivated by the town’s “healing waters,” according to the City of Calistoga.

Napa’s northernmost town was, and still is, a hub for healing and relaxing in the natural spring water, sourced from below its surface and pumped into pools at some of the most luxurious spas around. And of course, there’s the wine. Calisotga has both historic and world-famous wineries as well as trendy and care-free tasting rooms that accommodate just about any personal preference.

Whether you’re a frequent visitor or a first timer, there’s always something to look forward to on a visit to Calistoga—a charming location in its balance between classic and current.

Here’s a glimpse into a day spent in Calistoga—perfectly fit for this harvest season and beyond.

First stop: Doc’s Place

Downtown Calistoga’s historic Lincoln Avenue. [Duncan Garrett Photography]
There’s nothing quite like soothing hot mud and the healing mineral waters from natural hot springs throughout Calistoga, a key feature at some of the iconic and oldest spas in the Napa Valley. For an experience like no other, and a spa history dating as far back as the late 1940s, look no further than Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort and Mineral Springs. “Dr. Wilkinson’s is the place ‘where wellness meets happiness,’” says general manager Jose Ortega of the fully remodeled property, featuring the spa, three Victorian guest houses and eight guest suites and their restaurant, House of Better.

There are a variety of shops to explore in Calistoga. [Duncan Garrett Photography]
Back in 1946, Dr. John Wilkinson, a young chiropractor, visited Calistoga and was captivated by the healing elements of the natural hot springs and volcanic ash mud from Mount Saint Helena. He opened the doors to Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs in 1952, growing his reputation for quality spa treatments and chiropractic services. Both John and his wife, Edy, ran the business until the 1970s, turning it over to their children. In 2019, the business sold to Chartres Lodging Group, who revamped the place with help from TLE Spas of San Francisco and EDG Interior Architecture + Design of Novato.

While Wilkinson is no longer running the biz, the spa is better than ever and still focuses on providing guests with a one-of-a-kind spa experience. Most wellness journeys start out with a deeply satisfying spa treatment, especially the fan favorite: mud baths.

“Mud baths are what we are known for,” says Ortega. “We continue to offer the original mud bath treatments as Dr. Wilkinson perfected back in 1952,” he says. “Our mud mixture is unique to Dr. Wilkinson’s, and we continue to use volcanic ash.”

The ash is derived from the local Mount Saint Helena volcano that erupted millions of years ago, and the benefits of submerging yourself in the hot mud are plentiful. “The mud baths help to relax, improve blood circulation, eliminate toxins, decongest the respiratory system, soothe muscles and joints and improve skin conditions,” he says.

Not sure what treatment is right for you? According to Ortega, The Works is where it’s at. The experience begins with a hot mud bath, followed by a mineral whirlpool infused with epsom sea salts, a facial mask, geo steam-room therapy, a blanket wrap and a 60-minute Swedish massage. “The Works offers the most healing benefits,” he explains, with the blend of both heating and cooling, minerals and massage.

“The mineral baths can help tone your autonomic nervous system,” says Ortega. “It can normalize your endocrine system, support a better lymphatic system, relax sore muscles and joints, and release toxins through sweating.”

The treatments can also be customized, with enhancements including sound therapy and infrared therapy.

After the spa, don’t even think of leaving, because it’s time to hit the pools. Reserve a cabana, day bed or just take a dip in one of their three mineral pools, each set to a different temperature to suit guest’s needs.

Neon signage adds to the resort’s retro feel. [Photo courtesy of Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort]
All this detoxifying and swimming can work up a hunger, and chances are guests won’t feel up to venturing out to find food. Best to enjoy the property’s own House of Better restaurant, which can accommodate all your nourishment needs, serving up healthy Southwestern comfort foods. Entrees include green chili stew, served with choice of pork, chicken or veggies; new Mexican flat enchiladas and for your sweet tooth, a slice of lemon buttermilk pie or green chili apple pie.

But why leave now? With access to newly upgraded and plush guest rooms, staying the night only makes sense.

“After a day of pampering, detoxifying, relaxing and fun, guests can enjoy the best night’s sleep in one of our beautifully designed guest rooms,” says Ortega.

Guests can go for a spin without leaving their room. [Photo courtesy of Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort]
The rooms are comfortably equipped with diffusers with their specialty blended essential oils, pink Parachute bathrobes, Malin+Goetz bath amenities, a Smeg kettle for pour over coffee or flower tea, retro refrigerators, Dry Bar hair dryers, voice activated Google Nest speakers curated for Dr. Wilkinson’s and of course, branded water bottles.

Beyond the bedroom, the entire property offers endless features and fun for all guests’ needs, such as EV charging stations, lawn games, branded bicycles, swings, hammocks, picnic tables and giant chess and Jenga games.

The only thing missing at this point is the perfect glass of local wine.

Fill up at Tank

Visitors are drawn to Tank’s vintage aesthetic. [Photo courtesy of Tank Garage Winery]
Pump the brakes, pull over but don’t even think about opening your filler cap. Though it may just look like a retro gas station on the corner of Lincoln Avenue and Foothill Boulevard in Calistoga, Tank Garage Winery is the place to fill up wine glasses, not gas tanks. “There’s really no other winery like Tank in Napa Valley, or maybe even the world,” says Ed Feuchuk, manager at Tank Garage Winery.

When founder and owner James Harder set his sights on the gas station-turned tasting room, he drew his inspiration from the “garagistes” of Bordeaux, who made wine in garages during the 1990s. And it’s not just because of their cool 1930s-era service station appearance—it’s partly due to their uniqueness in standing out from the typical and often stuffy Napa Valley Cab scene.

Once visitors step inside the tasting room, they are immersed in a vintage California ambiance, surrounded by a selection of cool and unique items, like a 1947 Indian Chief motorcycle, a custom “hippie” surfboard and an array of California street and skate-wear merchandise. “Tank is all about vintage California,” says Feuchuk. “We explore themes from the 1930s through the 1980s.”

The not-so-typical tasting room interior. [Photo courtesy of Tank Garage Winery]
The theme carries over to their wine labels–a visual representation of Tank’s off-the-wall creativity sprinkled with some intriguing adult language. “We use lots of ’60s and ’70s aesthetics and often work with adult themes and languages, because if we won’t, who will?” he says, with wines like “Softcore,” “Make Money,” and “Girls Girls Girls.”

Among their most popular releases, a red wine called, “Middle Finger” which featured a gold sculpture of just that, was a hit, selling out almost immediately. “This wine sold out in a matter of hours, and we had celebrities contacting us begging for a bottle,” says Feuchuck.

But it’s more than just playful names, because most of the time, the inspiration comes from the wine itself. Most recently, the winery released a sparkling Barbera, using the ‘Méthode Ancestrale’ technique infusing the wine with bubbles.

General Manager Ed Feuchuk with Proprietor James Harder. [Photo courtesy of Tank Garage Winery]
“James loves the band Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark (popular for their song If You Leave from the ’80s) and thought it would be cool to call ours Ancestral Manoeuvres in the Dark. Really, James must have been a rock ‘n’ roll frontman in another life, because he truly has a gift for naming wines. I don’t think there is anybody in the wine industry as creative and talented as he is here,” says Feuchuk.

Guests may even consider keeping the bottle long after they’re done with the wine. “We treat labels like a work of art and something you’d want to have up on a wall or put on the cover of a record, like old vinyl album covers,” he says. “We want to give people a visual idea of what’s in the bottle and what their drinking experience will be like.”

In the bottle, the wine is always unique to Tank’s adventurous style. While most local wineries focus on their boldest and best Cabernet and Bordeaux blends, Tank is all about venturing far beyond Napa for their grapes, and creating unique blends. Today, the winery partners with roughly 40 different vineyards across the Napa Valley, Sonoma, Mendocino, Lodi, Sierra Foothills, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara and more.

We work with about 40 to 50 different grape varieties every year from some of California’s most important vineyards,” says Feuchuk. “We’re able to give guests new and fresh experiences that they can’t find elsewhere in Napa Valley. These include red and white blends, but also natural wines, pét-nat sparkling wines, skin-fermented ‘orange wines,’ and blends that utilize carbonic maceration.”

What makes their wines even more special, is they are one and done. “All of our wines are limited-production one-time productions,” he says. “You can’t find them in stores, or at restaurants, and once they are sold out, they are gone and there won’t ever be another vintage.”

It’s best to not leave the winery empty handed, because you may not get the opportunity to enjoy your favorite pour again. “The only place to get Tank wines is directly from Tank,” says Feuchuk. “ Due to our limited production, our wines may only be purchased at Tank, through our wine club, or our online store. We will also warn that some of our wines sell out fast, like in less than an hour, so if you taste something you love, get it now.”

Don’t miss out—pull up at Tank and make this visit to Calistoga a memorable one.

Chateau Montelena

The estate at Chateau Montelena. [Photo courtesy of Chateau Montelena]
For wine lovers looking for rich history, a luxury experience, or beautiful grounds to explore, Chateau Montelena pours some of the most dynamic wines that the Napa Valley has to offer—rich in flavor and history.

Located at the top of Napa Valley in Calistoga, the tasting room is open daily, and visitors may want to make a reservation prior to stopping in because it fills up fast. Fourteen decades of winemaking and an almost unthinkable win in the 1976 Judgment of Paris for their 1973 Chardonnay makes this a popular and historic destination in Calistoga.

Matthew Crafton, winemaker, Chateau Montelena

“The beauty of Montelena is that we strive to meet visitors where they are in their wine journey,” says winemaker Matthew Crafton. “Some come for history, to learn about The Judgment of Paris and California’s emergence on the world stage, [while] others are interested in a luxury experience, touring the vineyard and tasting some of the most dynamic, ageable wines in Napa Valley. And others are new to wine but are searching for a special bottle to celebrate a key moment in their lives.”

If you’re looking for something special, the chateau’s library wines are a great way to enhance a celebration with a vintage from a memorable year. “A visit to the winery is an excellent opportunity to purchase library wines, perhaps the vintage you were married or your birth year,” says Crafton. “We also offer large format bottles in sizes up to nine liters. They’re beautifully etched and fun to share.”

Visiting the winery is the best way to get access to some of the most exclusive and rare wines they have to offer. “We always have special wines here at the Chateau that can’t be found elsewhere,” Crafton shares. “Some of these are available exclusively for members, such as our limited-release 50th anniversary Chardonnay, but there are other small, rare bottlings that we offer to all guests.”

If possible, visitors should pop by during harvest season, where guests can actually see for themselves the art of the grape crush. “Harvest is a one-of-a-kind experience,” he says. “Our crush pad is out in front of the winery and we invite our guests to come see how the magic is made.” He adds, “We really try to build a lasting connection with our customers by just being who we are—a second generation, family-owned winery driven by integrity and service. People are attracted to that.”

Calistoga Depot Provisions

Calistoga Depot Provisions recently opened. Proprietor Jean-Charles Boisset hosted a ribbon-cutting ceremony in July. [Photo by Alexander Rubin]
It’s easy to work up a hunger and a thirst while navigating about Calistoga. A great way of satisfying the palate while enjoying a bit of the town’s history is stopping by the new Calistoga Depot for provisions—a delicatessen, mercantile and wine shop selling local artisan products.Back in 1868, the train depot was established—the second oldest in California—and operated until 1969.

This past July, proprietor Jean-Charles Boisset unveiled the first phase of the depot, saying in a statement, “This is a historic moment for the Calistoga Depot and American wine history. We are honored to continue the story of this iconic destination by meticulously returning her to her former glory and showcasing all of the elements this grand estate has to offer.”

The depot serves as a convenient stop on a day through the town to get access to an incredible wine selection as well as gourmet foods perfectly suited for a picnic nearby or on their outdoor patio. Cheese, charcuterie, gourmet goods, pizza, sandwiches, hamburgers and breakfast goods, as well as coffee, are all part of the locally sourced and sustainably grown goods for guests. But it’s really all about the good wine on the go. The depot’s wine selection highlights rare finds and favorites from Calisotga and Napa, sold by both the glass and the bottle.

One fun feature of the depot is the old service rail cars, which are being renovated into businesses such as Earth & Sky Chocolates, a Champagne and oyster bar, a Mexican restaurant, a saloon and a retail boutique. There will be something for everyone at the depot, so be sure to keep an eye out for updates on this exciting project.

Old town, new adventures

As Calistoga continues to charm visitors and locals through its historical landmarks, world-famous wineries and luxury spas, there are seemingly endless ways to make a big day in this tiny town. This harvest season, be sure to revisit and explore the wonders that Calisotga has to offer.

 

A Family-Friendly Day

Not sure how to make a fun day for the whole family in Calistoga? Here’s an easy, breezy itinerary suited for family fun.

First stop: Cafe Sarafornia. A classic diner, this charming breakfast restaurant checks all the boxes. Grab a mimosa or a coffee, waffles and pancakes for the kids and enjoy one of their many breakfast options, such as the “best huevos rancheros in Napa Valley.” Big portions, chill vibes and very kid-friendly.

Next stop: Old Faithful Geyser of California. An old favorite, the grounds at the geysers are a great place for kids to romp around and explore, while catching regular eruptions of the geysers. Additionally, the petting zoo on the property features Tennessee fainting goats, a real crowd pleaser. Guests can even visit their bocce ball courts for a game or two while shading under a covered cabana.

Cruise over to the Castle at Castello di Amorosa. Stop by a real castle, moat and all, for a wine tasting for the parents and a grape juice tasting for the kids. There’s even an outdoor zoo fully stocked with peacocks, chicken, pigs, sheep and goats.

 

Pick your Pool

Calistoga has no shortage of incredible pools to lounge by and plunge in. Here’s a list of some of the best pools to dip into.

Indian Springs Resort. The olympic-size mineral pool at Indian Springs was built in 1910 and offers healing and therapeutic benefits from the local naturally sourced mineral waters. The pool is one of the largest in all of California.

indianspringscalistoga.com

Calistoga Spa Hot Springs. With several different warm mineral pools to choose from, ranging from 80 to 104 degrees, this popular resort is spacious and inviting. They also offer incentives for those in search of the perfect pool day, such as their plus one program, where resort guests can bring a plus one to enjoy the pools for $75.

calistogaspa.com/pools

Solage at Auberge. The iconic 130-foot pool at Solage is nothing short of fabulous, with views of the Mayacamas Mountains in the distance and luxurious cabanas to lounge in. Food and drink service available poolside.

aubergeresorts.com/solage

Golden Haven. At 102 to 104 degrees, this giant hot spring mineral pool is covered, creating an indoor-outdoor feel and comfortable to swim in year round. The space also offers a sun deck and two jetted spas.

goldenhaven.com/hot_springs_mineral_pool.htm

 

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