Petite Left Bank

Petite Left Bank, the diminutive sister restaurant of the renowned Left Bank Brasserie in Larkspur, opened in downtown Tiburon last fall—bringing to the toney southern-Marin peninsula a similar casual-elegance/exquisite-food pairing that Marin residents have come to know so well all these years at the Magnolia Avenue location.

Inspired by the French bistros that line La Rive Gauche (the “left bank” of the River Seine), chef Roland Passot’s newest homage to the brasseries of Paris hits just the right note of the airy informality of a European café without having to leave the 415.

The interior—designed by Oakland-based Arcsine, known for its work with restaurants and other hospitality-focused sites—presents a fresh, modern look, with cool blue-grey tones that are well-served by the natural daytime light showering in from the three French door/windows facing Tiburon Boulevard. The building itself at 1694 Tiburon Blvd. has risen as a two-story Phoenix from the demolished ashes of the single-level site that formerly housed the New Morning Café—the bright-white (with blue accents) painted structure looks better than ever. With the bay breezes and plethora of cyclists on any given day in Tiburon, Petite Left Bank has Old World charm before one even steps inside.

And speaking of stepping inside, on the February weeknight we visited, the space was bustling—even the small bar near the door was stocked with locals enjoying cocktails and such frites-sided options as Le Burger Americain (cheddar, aioli, veggies including French gherkins on brioche, $16) and the PLB, a house burger with Emmenthal cheese, caramelized onions and an Andalouse sauce, $18).

The space is basically a single, open-air dining room with comfy booth seating lining the west wall and tables scattered throughout. Our table for two was a cozy nook among the plethora of guests; the medium-high ceiling allowed nearby voices to dissipate, so casual conversation was easy despite the room buzzing with lively diners.

Our amiable server Lovel steered us toward some of Petite Left Bank’s signature selections, starting with its onion soup ($12)—an ample cup filled with baguette croutons and Emmenthal; the savory broth packed tremendous flavor with each sip. (Spoon it slowly—it comes piping hot, somewhat unavoidable since it needs to melt the cheese.) Suckers for pate, we also sampled the chicken liver mousse ($15), topped with a layer of gelled plum and a sprinkle of mustard seed. The mousse was a smooth and sumptuous spread for the accompanying crostini slices (hint: if you order the mousse/crostini along with the onion soup, it makes for excellent dipping).

The restaurant’s Area General Manager Frank Caiazzo told us that, since its opening in September, PLB’s clientele has been largely composed of locals—Tiburon-Belvedere folk, or Marin fans of the Magnolia Avenue location across the 101 who’ve made the short journey up Tiburon Boulevard to check out the new kid in town. It’s early days to know if the restaurant will eventually draw regular ferrygoers from SF or diners from further afield; at the moment, PLB seems focused on becoming a local favorite.

Petite shares a few menu highlights with the Larkspur brasserie, such as the Nicoise Salade ($24), a generous plate of greens mixed with fresh green beans, poached tuna, salty anchovy and an oregano-thyme vinaigrette (perfect for sharing; or could be an entrée on its own). Another house special, and the first of our two entrées, is the boeuf bourguignon ($32), the classic French beef stew with all the best mini veggies—fingerling potatoes, button mushrooms, pearl onions, baby carrots—braised with a Burgundy sauce. PLB’s combines short ribs with bacon lardons in one of the most savory, flavorful red-wine sauces I’ve tasted. Lovel recommended a side of mashed potatoes to sop up any remaining jus; it’s that good.

Our other entrée, Lobster Frites ($47), came from the Avec Frites menu, where entrees are served “with fries”—practically a house specialty unto its own, with options for plain, garlic, béarnaise or an alluring concoction they call “sauvage,” or wild. The half-lobster is served in its shell, though the meat is helpfully prepared in the kitchen—there are no bibs at Petite Left Bank—and seasoned with Parmesan and chives and served with a buttery Bearnaise. We recommend enjoying half the lobster with the tasty white-wine-based sauce, and half without—it’s that good on its own.

We managed to save room to share the chocolate torte ($11), a slice of flourless cake set atop a subtle vanilla custard and topped with whipped crème fraiche—a decadent end to the meal.

Like the River Seine cafes that inspire Passot’s brasseries, Petite Left Bank’s air of casual-fine-dining is a welcome addition to Southern Marin’s restaurant scene, which has struggled to shed the haughty reputation the area developed in the late-‘90s and early 2000s when its food culture experienced rapid growth. But PLB’s emphasis on local-bistro approachability—coupled with genuinely impressive cuisine—is the type of experience Tiburon (and Marin) restaurant goers have been calling for in recent years. From what we saw (and tasted) at PLB, they may have finally got it. Bon appetite, indeed.

Petite Left Bank

1696 Tiburon Blvd., Tiburon

415-910-1010

petiteleftbanktiburon.com

Wine/beer/cocktails

Entrees: $24-$47