“Watchin’ the ships rolls in, then I’ll watch ‘em roll away again,” Otis Redding vowed in (Sittin’ On) The Dock of the Bay, the soul singer’s signature song from 1967, which he famously wrote from the Sausalito waterfront. The words strike a chord from the dining room at Ditas, the new upscale restaurant at the Bridgeway turn, where a panorama of the Tiburon Peninsula, Angel Island and the San Francisco skyline form about as unbeatable a triptych as anywhere in the Bay Area.
While Ditas itself doesn’t exactly scream rock ‘n’ roll—in fact, bossa nova and jazz are more likely to be heard on the internal sound system—its location on the second floor of the historic Trident building is inescapably part of its allure—if those views were good enough back in the day for its proprietors from the Kingston Trio and past regulars like Janis Joplin, Jerry Garcia and, when in town, the Rolling Stones, they’re good enough for the rest of us.
Ditas opened atop the Trident last May in a space that hadn’t hosted a restaurant since Ondine closed in 2020. It’s got that simple-yet-elegant vibe that tends to pair well with striking ocean views and extensive wine libraries, both of which Ditas checks off admirably. The second-story structure was reimagined by SF-based Windsor Gibson Architects, featuring subtle level changes to create a depth of space, while gentle lighting ensures a cozy atmosphere, while keeping the focus on the unbeatable views of the Richardson Bay. The interior design was also handled locally, in collaboration with Petaluma designer Maureen Kelsey, who created a sophisticated space mixing neutral natural colors with deep woods and gold accents.
We sat at a corner table alongside windows looking east and south; if the glistening bay at dusk doesn’t secure one’s gaze, check out the hillside across Bridgeway, stacked with sea-facing neighborhoods originally carved out by the Portuguese immigrants who settled the area. The kitchen is focused on European-Asian cuisine, with attention on each eye-catching plate paid as much to the color palette as to the tasting palate. Diners in the bar or patio can choose from the a la carte menu, an extensive list of options from starters like crudite ($17) and duck tacos ($24) to entrees of tri-cured salmon ($57) on up to 4 oz. Miyazaki A-5 Wagyu ribeye ($135; A-5 is the highest rating beef can earn). In the main dining room, Ditas offers a four-course tasting menu, with selections of the kitchen’s finest ($135) paired with selections from the Ditas cellar ($85).
Our tasting experience kicked off with a delightful salmon tartare, livened by pecan and candied mango topped by a dazzling pink hibiscus chip. That starter was paired with a taste of Florence Duchene Reserve Champagne, a mostly pinot blend (with just a touch of chardonnay), whose crisp, apple-y quality not only matched well with the King salmon, but the amber bayside light cast by the setting sun as well.
Salad-course options include peach and arugula salad to English peas and carrots, served more enticingly than the Brits tend to do thanks to candied pistachio and a dollop of crème fraiche. A 2021 Kremstal Gruner Veltliner accompanied, from the Stadt Krems estate founded in Austria in 1452.
Last year’s opening on Bridgeway marked the third such location in founders Udita and Utsav Khaitan’s Ditas portfolio, which includes locations in South Delhi and Mumbai (plans are reportedly in the works for another five locations across the globe in the next couple of years). Nikita Khandheria, 20-something CEO of Ditas Marin, spent most of her childhood in India, but was born in Marin and returned to attend Redwood High School in Tiburon. Ditas is expanding and Southern Marin is an ideal location to test the waters with a more top-end entry in the brand.
Next arrived our entrée plates—led by a buttery sea bass. As delicious as the bass was, the highlight of the evening was our portion of Wagyu ribeye, about as tender as beef can get, served in a dark, rich meat glaze and accompanied by small mushrooms. This native Japanese beef’s reputation precedes it as among the finest in the world—it can be pricey, but there’s no denying its taste. The course was paired with tastings of Nebbiolo D’Alba 2019 Bruno Ciacosa, a red Italian wine from the Piedmont region, known for its rich and round body, dense tannins and elements of plum and cherry.
Lastly came a dish of various chocolates, a dark and decadent treat, and the honey namelaka, a silky cream ganache-type dish in a cherry syrup—a sweetly satisfying end to the run of small plates. The evening’s final tasting was the Vinsanto 16, a velvety dessert wine sweetened by over-mature grapes from the Greek island Santorini.
On our visit, Ditas’s culinary magic matched that of its striking views step for step—and with its evening emphasis on a tasting/pairing menu, the restaurant nicely elevates its wine list in a way few other restaurants in Marin seem to achieve. Ditas manages to simultaneously capture both a toney bayside sophistication and the tasting culture of wine country—its filling a real niche otherwise lacking in the North 415.
Lends a whole new meaning to sittin’ by the dock of the bay.
Ditas
562 Bridgeway, Sausalito
628-261-9267
ditasmarin.com
Dinner, Wednesday to Sunday, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.; lunch, Wednesday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; brunch, Sunday, 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
