Jorge Flores pictured with his daughter. [Photos taken by Duncan Garrett]
Even after 18 years working in kitchens, Jorge Flores never expected to one day be referring to himself as head chef of Costeaux French Bakery in Healdsburg. Originally from Tijuana, Mexico, Flores emigrated to the states at 14 and like many immigrants to Southern California, had to overcome the dual challenges of learning the English language while coming of age in dangerous neighborhoods.
Flores recalls the prevalence of gangs in his area. “People were just crazy,” he says. “So I had to the learn the hard way—it definitely brought out a certain toughness in me.”
Flores was 22 when he entered the restaurant industry as a dishwasher at the French Garden in Los Angeles. What started as “just a job” turned into a passion for cooking. Flores is grateful for the chefs that invested time in him and taught him the ways of the restaurant world. Care to taste what Flores has got cooking in the kitchen? Visit Costeaux French Bakery at 417 Healdsburg Ave., and check them out at costeaux.com.
Did you ever imagine a career in the restaurant industry? 
I had no idea. I come from a very traditional Hispanic family, so my mom was always the one who cooked. I had never even touched a kitchen until I started working at the French Garden.
You’ve been working since early childhood—how difficult was that?
My dad raised me with this mentality of: “If you want something, you have to earn it.” So even as a kid I was always working and helping my parents. When I was around 9, I would help elderly people in our six-story apartment building. I would go door to door and carry their trash to these huge bins that were at the end of the block. They would give me a few pesos here and there.
Who has been your biggest inspiration?
My parents. There have been a lot of people throughout my life who have pushed me to keep going and not give up, my parents are an example of that. They have always been very hard working and made sure to provide for their family.
Has your childhood in Mexico influenced your cooking?
During the holidays when my family would get together, all the women would be in the kitchen cooking. Food brings people together. When you make good food, everyone is happy. It doesn’t matter how mad you are at each other; you push those things aside and you eat.
Are there any dishes you find challenging?
That question brings me back to when I first learned how to make risotto. I learned a hard lesson that day because it took a lot of patience and it required a lot of consistency. Once the risotto starts cooking, it eventually becomes translucent, then you have to immediately put on a timer and you cannot leave the stove. That’s not my favorite dish to make, but it left a memory in me that I still use on a daily basis when I cook. Consistency, timing and flavor matter. I also never let anything go to waste.
What do you do when you’re not in the kitchen?
I enjoy spending time with my daughter. I volunteer with her soccer team which is here locally. My daughter has always been around soccer, I played and so did my dad. She’s a really good player, I think she’s got a gift.
What is your favorite thing about yourself?
I am very proud of the changes I have made in my life. I went from hanging around the wrong people and being afraid of cops, to now waving hello to them when they drive by. They know me now and know that I’m very involved with the community.
Is it stressful managing a kitchen?
The stress at the previous restaurant I worked at, Campo Fina [in Healdsburg], would frequently drive me to my limit. It was very stressful, very high pace and on top of it all the demand was super high. I was working extremely long shifts, 9 a.m. to midnight. It was tough. Here at [Costeaux] it’s a lot calmer. If something [unexpected] happens, I don’t react in the heat of the moment. Frustration is just part of the business. It’s not an easy job, overseeing people—they are looking to you and waiting for you to manage them and delegate stuff. It’s hard.
How was your tutelage under chef Ari Rosen at Campo Fina?
I’m at where I’m at because of Ari. He pushed me super hard because he saw the potential I had. I was good, but I wasn’t excellent. He demanded excellence and he brought out the best in everybody—regardless of the stress we were under at Campo Fina. Now, when I see him, it makes my day.
