As I flip my mental clock from one year to the next, the force of nature and change feels imminent, yet some issues, including unrest over H2O, remain a constant. In the town of Calistoga, where I reside, water-related correspondence from the city most often took one of two forms last year. There were the concerning announcements that water purity fell below basic standards (though drinkable without boiling, if you can stomach the stench), and then, to further the irony, the notifications about proposed rate increases that could go into effect this coming March. When the city sent the official word in November confirming the increases, objections and comments on the social media platform Nextdoor sparked a wildfire and have been steadfast ever since.
A multipage pamphlet sent out detailed several reasons for the increases, which could culminate to as much as a 30% increase in water and wastewater rates over the next five years. The correspondence cited a string of reasons for rate hikes including, but not limited to: decrepit water systems, decreased revenues due to droughts, and the fact that two large resorts—which were expected to connect to city water in 2019—didn’t, with one vaporizing, and the other not plugging in until 2021.
Homeowners and other utility customers had the opportunity to protest the increases by submitting written objections in advance of the public hearing in December. At press time it was unknown if protests tipped the scales over the 50% marker, thus preventing the city from implementing the proposed rate adjustments, or if the prices will rise as planned.
Bottling
In other rising-tide territory, the cost of winemaking continues to escalate due to inflation, supply chain disruptions and market changes, which have caused wineries to get crafty with cost-saving measures to curb the rise of consumer pricing. Measures include everything from turning to newer AVAs and larger appellations, to lighter bottles, changes to label stock, and the elimination of “capsules,” the protective sleeves on the necks of the wine bottles. Rising costs have also caused some producers to skip over ultra-premium Napa Valley cabernet grapes, in favor of varietals and regions that aren’t so costly. Pair all that with escalating grower costs and labor shortages and the perfect storm has hit hurricane status—and consumers’ wallets.
Some wineries have made adjustments that minimize costs and increase the environmental payoff. Honig Vineyards in St. Helena eliminated paper labels and capsules for their entire portfolio which was estimated to prevent more than $1 million foils from falling into landfills each year.
In other wine regions, tasting rooms are implementing their own environmentally friendly and cost-savings measures. While some turn to avant-garde wine preservation systems, others—like Paso Robles-based Tablas Creek—pour wine from kegs in the tasting room, saving an estimated 10,000 bottles a year. Would such tactics ever be tolerated in Napa Valley? A flying Porky Pig comes to mind. I’d like to say that prices couldn’t get any more exorbitant than they already are, but I nix that thought every time I go out to dinner and find myself struggling to find a Napa Valley cab under $25 a glass.
Somm updates
Meanwhile, the Court of Master Sommeliers, Americas (CMS-A) is trying to break more palatable boundaries, with the implementation of a new strategic plan which aims to increase recognition, foster growth and innovation and actualize the goal of becoming the leading organization for professional development for beverage and hospitality professionals. The CMS-A strives to provide enhanced membership tools, resources and programs including the annual Women’s Sommelier Symposium.
In a release, Julie Cohen Theobald, executive director of the Court of Master Sommeliers, Americas, said, “Our organizational mission extends beyond exam administration. We are a source of inspiration, connection and education that has built successful career paths for leading hospitality professionals across the globe. This new strategic plan will help us expand our impact by creating a space of opportunity and community for beverage professionals at the highest standard.” In a survey conducted by CMS-A last year, 78% of respondents stated their pursuit of the CMS-A credential was to gain a deeper knowledge, while 63% stated general credibility and prestige in the wine field as another key factor.
To date, there are 168 professionals who have earned the Master Sommelier title with the Americas chapter, since the organization’s inception in 1987. Given 143 of those are men and only 25 women, let’s hope the new master plan inspires new ways to draw in a more balanced membership base.
Popup pilot
Popups have been “popping up” for years now, but the Oxbow Public Market in Napa spun up its own variation with the launch of its chef-in-residence program last year. The pilot program, which marked a collaboration between the Oxbow, Milestone Provisions and Stateline Smokehouse—which leveraged the opportunity to connect with locals and build a following with space at Oxbow, before spinning off to its permanent location on Vallejo Street, slated to open this winter. In November, Oxbow announced it would extend the residency program through 2024.
As much as I love a good popup, my hope for the New Year is that wine and water prices don’t “pop up,” too.
