When the Glass Fire roared through Napa Valley in September 2020, among the wineries impacted was Sterling Vineyards. “Most of our exterior structures are made of concrete and finished with stucco, so thankfully they survived through the efforts of Cal Fire,” says Luke Magnini, director of hospitality, “but all the interior spaces were either burned or too smokey and needed to be completely redone. Our gondola system was also affected and needed to be replaced.”
In the years since, work has been ongoing to renovate the Calistoga destination. In October 2023, it reopened with new and elevated tasting experiences, revamped hospitality spaces and a brand-new aerial gondola.
Up in the air
The winery is built on top of a 300-foot knoll, and the tram is the most enticing way to arrive. Park at the base of the hill and have your cameras ready.
Powered by 100% renewable energy and fully ADA accessible, the new gondola system traverses unique angles on a triangular track to create two distinctly different views as it ascends and descends. Movement is slow and gentle, so it feels more like floating than climbing. And since many of the trees impacted by the fire have been removed, the sightline has opened up, creating an expansive 360-degree view of the northern Napa Valley.
Top of the hill
We’re welcomed with a taste of 2022 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc—crisp, not sharp, with lemongrass and citrus—and shown to our table. Because of the elevation, the view from the tasting room also encompasses the valley to the east and west. Outdoor tables offer an even more tangible connection to nature.
The Hilltop Tasting ($95 per person) includes five wines and a well-curated cheese and charcuterie tray. While enjoying a 2018 Reserve Chardonnay and a 2019 pinot noir from Russian River Valley, we settle in and hear the Sterling story, starting with the winery’s beginnings in the mid-’60s, original construction of the hilltop facility and its recent revamp.
The chardonnay is lightly oaked, refreshing and velvety, and pairs nicely with a soft, chewy dried pear. The 2019 pinot noir has dark berries on the nose, with an earthy and meaty flavor profile. Nutty, tangy Manchego cheese and a delightful bresaola (air-dried, salted beef from Fabrique Délice in Hayward) enhance those notes.
The second flight features a 2015 Platinum Cabernet Sauvignon and 2018 Platinum Merlot, both grown on estate sites in Napa Valley. We’re challenged by our host to taste the cab first, a switch from traditional order. It delivers cocoa, orange zest and spiced fruit—an oaky, smoky delight that plays well with the meats and cheeses.
The merlot follows with a leathery nose, silky mouthfeel and stronger tannins. A bite of Ewenique gouda (Central Coast Creamery, Paso Robles) lays down a blanket for the wine to rest on. Flavors of plum and raspberries combine with an essence of moist forest floor. A delightful end to a delightful experience.
Down to earth
Our descent is just as fun as the ride up. We enjoy the valley view as we glide easily downward, satiated with good wine and eats, enjoying a sunny break between rain clouds. We can view fallen trees due to recent storms and track the now-fading fire scars. It may sound depressing, but the abundance of fresh budding greenery, mustard flowers and field grasses is a reminder that nature heals itself. Gondolas need a little help.
Did You Know?
In 1969, Sterling Vineyards produced California’s first vintage-dated merlot. Before this release, merlot had been widely considered only a blending grape in Napa.
At a Glance
Sterling Vineyards
1111 Dunaweal Lane
Calistoga, CA 94515
sterlingvineyards.com
The Hilltop Tasting
Ascend to the winery via an aerial gondola for seated tasting in Hilltop Tasting Room. Includes five wines and a well-curated cheese and charcuterie tray. 90 minutes. $95 per person.
Founders Experience
Taking place at the peak of the hill in the newly redesigned Founder’s Room, a premier tasting experience featuring world-class food-and-wine pairing with winery exclusive wines. 90 minutes. $121 per person.
Tour and Terrace Experience
Ascend to the winery via an aerial gondola to enjoy self-guided wine tasting of three wines while strolling the winery for a behind the scenes look at the art and science of winemaking. Concludes with a seated tasting of two wines and a cheese board on the elevated Southview Terrace overlooking the Napa Valley, weather permitting. 90 minutes. $75 per person.
Sterling Stroll
Upon arrival at the top of the hill, guests enjoy leisurely, self-guided wine tasting while strolling the winery for a behind the scenes look at the art and science of winemaking. 60 minutes. $55 per person.
