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Pacaso, tacos and trailblazers

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The older I get, the less likely I am to change—or so my father likes to not-so-gently remind me.
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While it felt like much of the winter months were spent enduring one-too-many tree-downed storms and the power outages that went with them, by the time this issue hits hands, hopefully those days are a thing of the past. The same might be said for the legal dispute between the City of St. Helena and the property-sharing Pacaso, the latter oft slammed on Nextdoor, community Facebook groups and via lawn signs staked by townies.

The three-year, epic battle royale began in April of 2021, when Pacaso sued the city on the questionable grounds that the town’s prohibition on timeshares didn’t apply to them or the homes the company owned or managed at the time. While Pacaso has always been quick to try and debunk the trash talk and timeshare comparisons, its business model smacks of just that. The company holds the title for its properties, creates an LLC, and then sells off shares of said property to as many as eight co-owners, while staying on as property manager. Sound a little familiar? Sketchy, too? How about problematic to the fabric of a community? If the numerous lawn signs and walks of protest when Pacaso rolled into town are any indicator, that would be a yes.

The suit was settled in February, with the slightest silver lining amid the murky waters. While the company can continue to operate its existing St. Helena holdings, it cannot expand beyond the initial four properties. Kevin Heneghan, Pacaso’s vice president of legal affairs was quoted in the Napa Valley Register stating, “Today’s announcement is a win for Pacaso co-owners, but it’s also a win for the community. Co-ownership allows families to come together and buy a second home that is better utilized and more affordable than traditional second homes would be.” Spoken like a true timeshare king.

Fast casual

The older I get, the less likely I am to change—or so my father likes to not-so-gently remind me. With each passing, middle-aged year, it has become harder and harder to debunk his cliched premise. If you have read my column for any stretch of time, you may agree with dear old dad, especially when it comes to my repeated refrains about the precarious proposition of finding a quick and casual, affordable place to feed my family in the upper valley where we live.

However, with the opening of the hotly anticipated Ray Ray’s Tacos in St. Helena, I might just jump off my soapbox. In March, chef Rachel Williams opened her casual Tex-Mex eatery in the historic Cornerstone building, where she serves up her famous Austin-style tacos, salads and scratch-made salsas, with a side of fresh NorCal vibes. Her mission is to blend the best of Texas Hill Country cuisine with the freshest flavors in the region, and an extra “something.” “Ray Ray’s is a place to show off more than just food,” she says. “It’s a way to connect all of us. Tables are places where the walls come down, barriers are broken, and community and a sense of place come together.”

What started out as a pop-up at the St. Helena farmers market in 2019, gained a loyal local following which continued to sprout, even during COVID times, when Williams pivoted and offered fresh taco kits to the masses. As each Napa Valley wine has its own unique imprint in terms of taste, so too do Williams’ tacos overflow with originality with savory selections including the Bridget (more on the names in a minute) with shredded brisket and pomegranate, and the Angelina with carnitas and kumquat.

Her women-powered restaurant has flipped the switch along the St. Helena strip with the mantra of offering “fast casual” and affordable eats in an open and convivial space. Whether you crave all-day breakfast tacos, the ease of counter service, Tex-Mex Tuesdays with a playlist to match, or “Hangover Brunch” on Saturday, there is a lot to love here.

Williams is quick to credit her community for weathering the pandemic and enduring the challenges that come with opening a restaurant in our Michelin-starred metropolis. “Whenever I wanted to give up, someone would come up to me at the market or on the street and say, ‘Keep going, we need this.’” And by “this” she means a place where people can jump start their day with grab-and-go breakfast tacos, pastries and pour-your-own coffee or unwind and eat after a tough day on the tasting trail or after a little league game. Currently open for breakfast and lunch service—dinner, outdoor dining and music nights are all on the horizon.

Willams also discussed how some would assume that the “Ray” behind the restaurant name is a man, when in fact “Ray Ray” is Williams’ nickname. “It’s as if they can’t imagine that a woman could be behind this. But, hey, women are badass—aren’t they?” she says with a wink of a Texas drawl. All of the tacos on the menu are named after women, be it mothers and grandmothers in her family, or lesser-known trailblazers in history. Now that’s what I’d call badass.

Author

  • Christina Julian

    Christina Julian left Los Angeles and a career in advertising to sip and swirl for a living in Napa Valley, where she vowed to make wine and the discussions around it, more approachable. She’s covered everything from arts and entertainment to travel and leisure but remains true to her own words as a wine and food writer for The Infatuation. NorthBay Biz was one of the first regional publications she wrote for when she landed here more than a decade ago, and she’s never looked back. Learn more at christinajulian.com.

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