Insalata's lush, Mediterranean-style façade is a familiar sight in San Anselmo. [Photo by Emily Merrill Photography]
Tucked modestly along a busy traffic thoroughfare near the “hub,” connecting Sir Francis Drake Boulevard in Ross Valley with San Rafael at the Miracle Mile, it’s easy to miss one of Marin’s most celebrated restaurants: Insalata’s.
That’s not to say the location isn’t instantly recognizable—the warm-yellow building with its lower facade framed by intense greenery, the exterior looks more Southern Europe than Central 415. The Mediterranean-influenced restaurant has over the years become “part of the scenery” in Marin in all the best ways.
We visited on a recent Tuesday and, even midweek, the place was clamoring—even the takeout nook saw heavy foot traffic; reservations recommended. Our table for two was centrally located within a classic interior décor of warm woods, white linen and soft lighting. A company gathering was filling seats in the private event room, while a smattering of regulars—sans the ubiquitous plus ones—sat by themselves enjoying menu favorites beneath a familiar wall-sized painting of fresh persimmons. Cozy, in a word.
We started with an easy choice—the eggplant fries ($10), one of Insalata’s most-ordered staples (along with the fattoush salad). The crispy aubergine is served in steak-fry cuts with a mint cilantro chutney dipping sauce. (Glance around, you’ll see multiple tables enjoying same.) We also sampled the Moroccan lamb kefta ($15), which featured small meatballs in a tomato-based shakshuka sauce thickened by soft Greek goat cheese. Deliciously savory, though not for the spice-averse with paprika and cayenne in the mix, it’s served with a handful of grilled flatbread slices for dipping—great for sharing, or could easily satisfy as a main entrée.
Insalata’s is longtime family-run by Heidi and Mark Krahling, who launched the restaurant in 1996, after chef Heidi honed her chops in such kitchens as Joyce Goldstein’s Square One in SF and Butler’s in Mill Valley. Their son, Joe Krahling, is now a partner and general manager; we found him busily working the room and recommending specials and favorites on the night of our visit. Joe’s fellow Drake High School alum Taylor Carnes worked his way up over the years from valet to partner and executive chef. For a restaurant with such a broad profile, Insalata’s seems committed to its local roots.
Carnes’ various promotions over the years proved well-deserved on our visit—our main courses were both highlights. The pan seared salmon ($33) is served with a smokey corn chowder and topped by an array of flavor-enhancers—from lightly grilled green onions and cherry tomatoes to cilantro and shatta (a Middle Eastern chili paste). The salmon was creamy rich and blended perfectly with the accompaniments. Just as satisfying was the wagyu bavette steak ($38), a savory flank-like cut matched tastily with a carrot soubise, or French cream sauce. Broccolini, crispy potato wedges, mushroom and a splash of salsa verde put this dish over the top. If you’ve got room, finish the night with the Pigs in Mud ($9), a decadent chocolate pudding served with shortbread. You won’t regret it.
Did You Know?
While “insalata” is indeed Italian for salad—an ideal name straight from Mediterranean Restaurant Branding 101—it’s actually in homage of Heidi’s late father, Italo Insalata.
Insalata’s
120 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., San Anselmo.
415-457-7700 (restaurant) and 415-457-8223 (takeout)
Insalatas.com
Lunch, Monday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner, Friday and Saturday, 5 to 9 p.m.; Sunday to Thursday, 5 to 8:30 p.m.
Brunch, Sunday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Takeout, daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
