The entrance radiates at Campanella. Look closely for a portrait of 'Nonna' above the fire.
Campanella is on its way to becoming one of Sebastopol’s quintessential neighborhood restaurants—just like the classic Italian-American eateries that inspire it. Its design is comfy yet eye catching. Prices are reasonable, but not at the expense of quality. Pours are generous. Service is on it. And you won’t leave hungry.
Campanella opened nearly a year ago in the space formerly occupied by Flavor Bistro at 7365 Healdsburg Ave. Like at Flavor, the outside seating is a real draw—there’s a reason its full billing is Campanella Kitchen & Garden Patio—especially on warm-weather evenings when dusk casts a mellow glow on the patio’s flora and green-hued decor. Come early and grab some of the cushiony seating along the side; Bowser’s invited to this “dog friendly patio” as well.
Other small touches add to the experience at Campanella. For instance, they’ve converted the formerly street-facing main doorway into an entrance at the side of the building—away from the traffic-heavy Healdsburg Avenue—a welcome conversion that conveys an awareness of space, as well an eye for customer appeal. Enjoying the space is part of any neighborhood restaurant’s draw. The other is the food.
We started off with the garlic knots ($9) from the “bites” menu, a buttery ball of baked dough, teeming with garlic and served with a tasty basil ranch sauce for dipping. No surprise, this is a house favorite. Our server also recommended a small plate of eggplant parma ($18)—led by a creamy vodka sauce and no shortage of mozzarella and ricotta—an ample dish that wouldn’t qualify as a “small plate” at most restaurants. But that’s part of the charm at Campanella, which is inspired by the mid-20th century so-called “red sauce joints”—Italian-American restaurants known for big sauces, big portions and big personalities. (The East Coast is dotted with them; out here think Original Joe’s, Joe’s of Westlake, etc.)
Co-owner Tom Rutledge and executive chef Anthony Paone are both Brooklynites, and the menu openly embraces the red-sauce-joint ethic, with a nod toward the nostalgic image of grandmotherly East Coast matriarchs—er, nonnas—and the family comfort foods they perfected, where the idea of too much garlic, parmesan or tomato-based anything was a foreign concept. (The illustration of Brooklyn Nonna on the menu, replete with curling-iron updo and oversized red granny glasses, is a composite of a typical Kennedy-era nonna.)
For entrees we sampled the gnocchi ($24), a generous portion of soft dumplings under a creamy ragu Bolognese, and the Palisades ($27), one of a handful of 14-inch New York-style pizzas on the menu. The pizzas are a must—ample enough for two, ours featured mushrooms and caramelized onions over a garlicky confit-cream sauce, the highlight of the meal. Other classic red-sauce-joint recipes on the menu include spaghetti and Nonna’s meatballs ($27), linguini and clams ($29) and, of course, chickens parm ($26) and cacciatore ($28). Tutto buonissimo!
As we polished off a shared chocolate budino ($13) from the dessert menu, we overheard what was clearly a pair of female regulars at the table next to us asking the server about his kids and whispering between themselves as to whether they recognized any of the other patrons. Campanella is clearly their neighborhood restaurant, and quietly growing into one for all of Sebastopol. Somewhere Nonna is smiling.
Did You Know?
Campanella means “little bell” in Italian.
Campanella
7365 Healdsburg Ave.
Sebastopol
707-910-3030
Wednesday and Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
