As eager as I am to dump the thunderstorm that was 2025, it’s hard not to reflect on simpler days of the past, and what once was and will never be.
Especially because last month brought the closure of a Napa Valley institution—Goose & Gander—leaving locals crushed and wondering what’s to become of the iconic space. It was at the classic downstairs bar, Mick Jagger blasting in the background, that I met the man who would become my husband and father to my children. He swapped stories of the good ole days growing up in the valley, while I tried to pay attention in between bites of what will forever stand as the best burger in Napa Valley. The same hunk of beef I once wrote about as, “Not merely the bomb—a hand grenade. Unassuming on the outside until gooey goodness explodes on the inside…culinary nirvana.” Not only is that the glorious hunk of beef gone baby gone, but the exodus also takes a bite out of the St. Helena nightlife scene, which may never recover. Will the legendary spot (once home to the equally revered Martini House) become another belt notch on an already lengthy list of hoity-toity, overpriced restaurants that are taking over this valley, or will it become a reinvention worthy of its predecessors?
At the time of writing this obit—ahem—column, no reason for the closure was stated, but the public outcries and warnings of “don’t mess with this place” remain out in force.
Awakenings
As old standbys fade out, other iconic spots fade in from obscurity. What was once Brannans in Calistoga is back on the scene with the opening of Eight North. Third- and fourth-generation proprietors Betsy and Sara Lawer, who planted roots in Napa Valley more than two decades ago with Lawer Estates, are ready to reignite the space which sat dormant for nearly a decade. Billed as a wine-focused restaurant, bar and event space where guests can taste, explore, discover and dine all under one roof, the namesake represents the mother-daughter duo’s eight “North Star” core values: integrity, rebel spirit, community-focused, people-first mindset, generational legacy, adaptive reuse, uncompromising quality and Lawer hospitality. The cozy and inviting atmosphere from the Brannan days remains, with an elevated menu centered around a wood-fired grill and peak-season produce courtesy of executive chef Abby Burk. On a recent night out with the fam, we tasted our way through the menu with delicious dishes including the savory veggie potpie with a light and airy seeded puff pastry top, flank steak with grilled root vegetable hash, and the true North Star for my taste buds, the shrimp and grits with andouille sausage and a bacon gravy float, which is still calling to me weeks later.
The front of the restaurant, marked by the signature floor-to-ceiling windows that fly open when the weather is right, serves as the tasting area—which in addition to the portfolio of Lawer wines, will showcase a selection of Calistoga (and neighboring) wineries who don’t have a storefront. “Not too long ago we were in that same position,” beverage manager Christian Diaz says. “We didn’t have a tasting room [until 2019] and it was hard to get placement in hotels and restaurants. We want to help out smaller brands in the area.”
Currently, there are six tasting options, two of which are curated wine-and-food pairings, that showcase dishes not typically offered on the main dining room menu. Other features include the “Evolution of Chardonay” and the non-alcoholic “Little Somm,” featuring a variety of Lawer grape juices. Tastings can also be customized by the glass, through curated flights or paired with seasonal dishes.
The “keeping it local” vibe extends to the beer selection, many which come from the neighboring Calistoga Inn brewery. “Our whole vision for the restaurant is to support the community. We want to create an economic ripple and feature as many local products as we can.” Adding to the hometown feel is the fact that many of the staff are based in and around the Calistoga area, which feels very welcoming indeed.
The Napa Valley Standard
In other news, the end of the year also brought Visit Napa Valley’s latest effort to keep the good times and tourists rolling in, with the launch of The Napa Valley Standard, a four-day preview weekend in November, which is slated for a full-scale launch in 2026.
The “Standard” is being marketed as a high-touch showcase for tastemakers, luxury travelers and cultural curators with preview programing staged at Auberge du Soleil, Carneros Resort and Spa, Four Seasons Napa Valley, Meadowood and Silverado Resort. The events featured experiences with Michelin-recognized chefs and acclaimed winemakers and included a walk-around tasting at CIA at Greystone, as the cornerstone of the weekend. Most events were capped at 50 guests with price points ranging from $225 to $750. With Napa Valley brimming with festivals and exclusive events, I can’t wait to see which shoot to superstardom ala BottleRock, and which fade into obscurity like the expertly curated Napa Valley Film Festival, which deteriorated after an awkward shift in producers and then disappeared after COVID. A loss that feels on par with the passing of the beloved Goose & Gander burger—RIP.
